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Re: Rotors locking up after new brakes, rotors, calipers...
Rotors only lock up because the brake fluid has no where to return to when it gets hot
Problem most likely in the master cylinder where the compensating port is blocked or the reservoir is over full
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Would almost guarantee it is the rubber brake hoses. The bracket rusts on the ID which pinches off the hose and will not allow the fluid to flow back into the reservoir.
If brakes are locking up with a new caliper, check the brake hoses for a clog. Just remove the hose from the caliper side. It should drain on its own with just gravity consistently. If not its clogged or broken inside and this will trap pressure on your brakes after first use.
Sometimes I have seen wrong rotors and or warped rotors or poorly made rotors to cause brakes to lock up when wheels are tightened. Also check for caliper bolts and bracket bolts for being too long and touching brake parts.
Make sure the vehicle is safely on jacks,remove the wheels,remove the calipers (DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE HOSES FROM THE CALIPERS) and remove the caliper mounting brackets.The rotors should now almost fall off with a rap of a hammer at the hub area.
Make sure the hub is free of rust and dirt before installing the new rotors.On reassembly ALL BOLTS must have THREAD LOCK applied to their threads as is factory procedure.
NEVER USE ANTI-SEIZE ON ANY BRAKE BOLT THREADS!!!!
Apply high temp silicone brake lube on caliper sliders and behind brake pads to eliminate squealing noisy brakes.
The hose could be collapsed internally holding residual pressure and keping the pads applied. Also make sure that the caliper is sliding free side to side.
If they are not worn beyond tollerance they can be machined on the vehicle.
Also make sure its not tyres or wheel bearings.
remove wheel
remove brake caliper( leave the hose connected)
remove centre cap
remove split pin and lock
unscrew bearing hub nut
rotor should come off
fit new bearing races in new rotor
grease new bearings
fit inside bearing and seal
refit rotor, outer bearing,washer,nut,lock, splitpin and centre cap
(tighten nut until no play in bearing plus 1\8 of a turn)
refit caliper and wheel
bleed and test brakes before driving
I also have this problem on my 2000 Bravada - replaced all rotors and back calipers, brand new brake pads, new system and my rear caliper STILL chewed up a brand new brake pad in one week down to the metal. Checking for an emergency brake issue at this point - if anyone has any suggestions about how to unhook the E Brake, please share!
The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.
Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!
If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!
Remove tyres.
Remove brake pads.
Remove Brake calipers bolts from the back of calipers.
Put calipers aside without removing brake lines.
Remove rotor bolts.
Remove rotors.
Install new rotors
Make sure new rotors are clean from any grease that comes on it with petrol or any cleaning chemical for that purpose (no water)
Install calipers
Install new brake pads
Good luck
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