Assuming you replaced the master and slave cylinders. most likely there is air in the line and it needs to be bled.
Be more specific... Do you have a hydraulic clutch problem??? Where you replaced the master slave cylinders as a well as the rubber hose?
Gravity and 2-person bleed?
Then, sometimes, you'll get a brand new defective parts from the box in 10% of the cases I have seen...
SOURCE: Clutch will not Engage
You need to bleed it out. It takes some time to do this. There is a bleeder valve above the hose fitting on the tranny. Have some one pump the clutch and hold it down and crack the bleeder nut. Just like you would when you do your brakes.
SOURCE: Would an 1990 ford f250 7.3L diesel , transmission
IF MY MEMORY SERVES ME RIGHT THE 5.0 IS A SMALL BLOCK AND THE 7.3 IS A BIG BLOCK. IF THIS IS THE CASE NO THE TRANY WON'T BOLT UP
SOURCE: Need 93 ford F250 clutch diagram to understand how it works
It must a Diesel? Exterior slave cylinder? The double, or split, flywheel has is made of two major parts. One part is bolted to the crankshaft and there is a bearing that supports the other part of the flywheel that pressure plate bolts to. There are cushioning springs in the flywheel instead of in the clutch disc, it's not a very good set-up and they are prone to failure. "LUK Clutch Company", makes a solid flywheel and regular clutch for those trucks, there might other companies too. The clutch works the same way as any other clutch but, the reason it pushes hard is because the sleave that the release bearing (throw out bearing) rides on, is most likely galled or dry. That sleave is made of aluminum and they have a nasty habit of getting messed up, I don't remember if there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold that sleave on the front of the trans. At any rate that sleave is easy to replace once the trany is out of the vehicle, check the arm for wear and cracks too. If you don't want to pull the trans to fix it right, you might be able pull the boot out that goes around the clutch release arm enough to squirt some oil up on that sleave, that might get you by for a while.
Testimonial: "Excellent explanation of my clutch set-up. Now I know what to do next."
SOURCE: clutch pedel stuck on floor
The clutch cable provides a means to "break the drive" between the engine and the wheels. The engine spins constantly, but the wheels do not, so in order to stop a car's wheels without turning off the engine, the wheels have to disconnect from the engine. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the cable disengages the plates, allowing the driver to shift gears or coast without killing the engine.
A failing clutch cable may make the clutch pedal difficult to depress. If the clutch cable fails, the clutch pedal may remain on the floor and not return to its normal position.
To replace the clutch cable, disconnect it from the clutch pedal (usually inside the vehicle) and from the release mechanism or cable attachment that operates the clutch assembly (usually at the transmission beneath the vehicle). A new clutch cable is then installed and adjusted. (The specifics vary according to the vehicle and range from straightforward to very difficult.)
SOURCE: My 1990 Ford F250 won't start but has new starter, battery and ignition switch
Have you checked for 12 volts coming in going out of the the starter solenoid switch that is mounted passenger side fenderwell.
Testimonial: "No but that is logical; thanks! You can start the truck by 'jumping out' that same solenoid."
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