Brake on front passenger side keep going out - 1998 Ford Windstar

You always go from the one the farthest away first.So you start on passenger side rear then driver side rear then passenger side front then driver side front.

I doubt there are two separate switches. I also doubt that there are two wires running from up front to the back. There is most likely a single wire going to the brake light on the driver side and one going from there to the passenger side. It either this wire or a connector that you should be looking at, assuming that you have replaced the globe!

keep bleeding but u need to bleed all brakes---start with furthest passenger side rear --drivers side rear --passenger front than finish with drivers side front it will seem like your bleeding forever but you will have a lot of air when replacing a line

Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

if this is a 4.6 northstar there are two on the passenger side on bottom of engine and of course the transmission mounts the mount on the front passenger side is a high failure item to check raise hood start engine press hard on brake pedal put car in drive accelerate engine (about 1/4 throttle from in the car watch front 0f engine on pass side keeping foot on brake pedal see if engine jumps up when you jab the accelerator if so the mount is broken

Sounds like you might have air in the brake system. You will need to bleed the brakes to remove air. Start with the passenger back wheel. use a small hose and submerge the end in a glass bottle filled 1/3 full of brake fluid. The other end goes on the nipple of the brake bleeder. Have someone pump the brakes and then hold the pedal down then loosen the bleeder. then tighten the bleeder. you should see bubbles in the brake fluid. Keep repeating this procedure until you see no bubbles. You might have to put as much as 1 quart of brake fluid thru each wheel to remove air. Then you do the driver side rear followed bypassenger side front and finally driver side front

normally, the brakes are bled starting from the furthest brake to the closest with respect to the master brake cylinder. the sequence is : right rear, left rear, right front, left front. pump the brakes until pressure is built up. do this rather slowly. while keeping downward pressure on the pedal, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor. hold the pedal on the floor and tighten the bleed screw. do this until no air is observed. keep the reservoir. repeat with the rest of the brakes following in sequence

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf90347.htm

jack up car and remove wheels, use a stick to depress brake pedal about an inch this will keep fluid from running out during replacement, loosen bleeder screws to relieve pressure, then ddisconnect brake hose at caliper, replace the calipers and reinstall hoses with new gaskets, remove brake hold down and bleed passenger side then drivers side.

well your brake porportion valve is not working right oh well good luck