Replacedfront rotors on driver side, both calipers,and pads. But cant drive 5 miles without smoking from wheels and dmell of burning brakes. What do i do. '94 chrysler lebaron

wonder if the rotors are too slim. If this happens the brakes get too hot as the rotor radiates away the heat. If too hot the brakes could wear out faster.

There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:

1. Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.
2. Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.
3. Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.

It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

yes baby it to him and replace both calipers and rotors as they will work better with your new brake pads. Do Not Do a half a job when it comes to brakes. its your family you are dealing with. calipers are cheap rotors are cheaper and pads are also cheap. its 3 hours labour to do a complete front brake job and rear brakes take 2 hours. with new shoes turn drums replace wheel cylinders and new rear brake hardware price in Canadian for front brakes under 400 price for rear under 250 American parts prices slightly different but labour times the same

Yes sounds like you did not reset the calipers when you done that.You need to open the bleed valve on them and press the pistons back in.You have them adjusted out too far.After you get that all done drive the truck backwards 50 feet then fowards.Do this 4-5 times to adjust them correctly.Try a school parking lot to do this in.

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components

Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads

Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper

Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads

Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount

Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor

Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper

Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor

Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads

Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper

Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.

caliper is sticking or pads are sticking ,proportioning valve with vehicle jacked up and supported and wheel removed inspect pads and rotor for damage excessive wear if good- turn hub/rotor by hand have someone assist u by stepping on brake observe brake caliper stop then release brake piston should release slightly from pad try turn hub again w/out touching brake if stuck in place replace and caliper released replace pads if caliper still clamped remove caliper and inspect for leak or damage compress caliper and try brake again if does if sticks again replace caliper

Sounds like either the brake caliper has seized up or one of the brake pads has got jammed up. You need to remove the caliper and investigate further. ICheck to make sure the piston/s in the caliper move. Also remove the brake pads , clean up the slides and apply some brake grease on the tips of the brake pad metal backs where the may contact with the caliper and mounting brackets.

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0