When changing heater hose under Distributor ,I

Check to make sure the cams are spinning sounds like the timing belt might be broken

NOTE! WHILE THIS IS NOT A HARD REPAIR, YOU ARE DEALING WITH GASOLINE AND GAS VAPOURS. tAKE THE NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS.
Take out the back seat (there are 2 pull-tabs to release it and it will lift up) and you will see 2 square plates that are screwed down. Remove the one on the passenger's side and you will see the the top of the gas tank and the sending unit (the sending unit contains the fuel pump).
Remove the electrical connector on the sending unit, and then start the car. It should die immediatly. Try starting the car several time to relieve the fuel pressure.
Next, remove the negative battery cable for safety. Then remove the 2 hoses going to the sending unit. One is held on by a hose clamp while the other is a threaded fitting. I REMOVED THE RUBBER HOSE FIRST AND ALLOWED THE GAS TO LEAK INTO A CONTAINER UNDER THE FUEL TANK.
AFTER TRYING TO UNSCREW THE METAL HOSE COUPLING, I REALIZED THAT THE RUBBER HOSE CONNECTED TO THE THEREADED FITTING WAS TWISTING INTO A KNOT. ( THE FITTING ON THE SENDING UNIT DOES NOT TURN_YOU CAN RUIN THE SENDING UNIT BY TRYING TO TURN THE FITTING ATTACHED TO THE SENDING UNIT. )
I HAD TO JACK THE VEHICLE UP, PLACE JACK STANDS UNDER THE REAR WHEELS, AND UNSCREW THE OTHER END OF THE THEREADED FITTING FROM THE SENDING UNIT WHERE IT CONNECTS TO THE FUEL LINE UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE. YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN THE FUEL LINE FITTING TO DISCONNECT IT FROM THE LINE THAT ATTACHES TO THE SENDING UNIT. AT THIS POINT, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO UNSCREW THE THEREADED FITTING THAT GOES TO THE SENDING UNIT. IT IS SAFER TO UNDO BOTH ENDS OF THE THREADED FITTINGS AND REMOVE THE HOSE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE SENDING UNIT/FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY.
Then remove the bolts on the sending unit and remove it from the gas tank.
Replace the pump in the sending unit and then put everything back together.

not sure where located,look where hoses for heater hook up and radiator hoses do,look for temp sending unit,wire sounds to knocked off,or loose,if this was working before,look around the areas they worked replacing hoses for loose wire,hope this helped,

Most likely the oil sending unit. Check your dash and see if its reading your oil level.

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Location See figure

1. Disconnect the battery cable.

2. Remove coolant recovery tank and lay aside.

3. Place a clean pan under the vehicle and then disconnect the heater core inlet and

outlet hoses at the heater connections. Quickly plug the heater hoses and support

them in a raised position. Allow the coolant in the heater core to drain into the pan

on the floor.

4. Remove heater distributor duct to distributor case attaching screws and distributor

duct to engine cover screw and remove duct.

5. Remove engine housing cover.

6. Remove instrument panel attaching screws: above, at windshield, all lower screws

and tight lower LP. Support bracket at door pillar and engine housing.

7. Lower steering column, and raise and support tight side of LP.

8. Remove defroster duct to distributor case attaching distributor to heater case.

9. Disconnect temperature door cable and fold cable back for access.

10. Remove three (3) nuts at engine compartment side of distributor case and one (1)

screw on passenger side.

11. Remove the heater case and core as an assembly. Tilt the case assembly rearward at

the top while lifting up until the core tubes clear the dash openings.

12. Remove the core retaining strap screws and remove the core.

13. To install a new core. Reverse Steps l-10 above. Be sure core to case and case to

dash panel sealer is intact before assembling unit.

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Regards, Lee Davidian

Try locating the heater hoses. Start with the vehicle cool and turn it on and wait till the engine temperature reaches the correct temperature. This should send fluid through the heater hoses. Feel the heater hoses for a change in temperature. If there is no change in heat after a while the problem is in your thermostat. If one heater hose is hot while the other is not than the problem is in the heater block. If both hoses are heating up then the problem is probably in the climate control knobs or wiring that controls the blend doors or may even be the blend doors are broke and are not opening correctly to allow heat into the vents. This could also be a problem if the ac does not get cool either.

I just replaced the heater core on my 1997 Buick Skylark about a year ago after one of the tubes completely came off and leaked all the coolant out. It was a fairly strenuous task because I had to stand on my head under the dash to remove the cover. There were also two screws that were hard to see and get to. I actually broke the cover because I couldn't see the screws (if the cover doesn't come off without much force you have probably missed a screw). The first step is to drain the coolant from your car, if it hasn't already leaked out. Then climb under your car and remove the two hose clamps and hoses from the heater core where the tubes come through the firewall (this is almost directly in the center, side-to-side, of the car). Also while under the car remove the rubber drain boot that is connected to the cover that I mentioned above. Then climb in the car upside down so you can see under the dash. In the center of the car under the dash you will see a plastic air channel that goes down into the floor. Remove the screws from this channel (I can only remember two screws) and disconnect the air hoses at the top on either side. Then the air channel will fold in the middle and should come out pretty easily. Once this is removed the plastic panel that I broke is next to come out. There are at least two screws on each side and two in the center (there may be more than this but is has been too long to remember). The two screws in the center are way down low where the floor board meets the firewall. They are not easy to see or get at but with a little patience you can get them out. Once this cover is off, the heater core is accessible. There may or may not be a couple of screws holding the heater core in place, if there is remove them and pull the heater core out. You will have to pull the tubes through the firewall. The new heater core that I bought was redesigned with metal instead of plastic tubes and looks like a much better design. I had to twist the tubes around to get them to align with the holes in the firewall. Then just reverse these directions to reinstall. Hopefully by now you haven't passed out from all the blood pooling in your head :) Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the process. Hope this helps.

If the copper/metal hose broke free from the heater core, the heater core will need to be removed and replaced. let me know what size engine and I can send you the removal procedures. Big job!!

on the 4.0 motor Under hood, passenger side, lower engine area, rear of distributor, mounted in engine block.
on the v8 Under hood, center, rear engine area, passenger side of distributor, mounted in block.

if the heater core inlet pipe broke you may need to replace the unit depending on how far it broke ...to help get the hose off a bent awl or sometimes a small screwdriver and run it around the inside of the hose to help loosen it it otherwise if your replacing the hose as well a razor knife you can cut a **** in it to open it up as well