Bled master cylinder and all wheels but back right wont get any fluid. Open once it shoots out mildly and that's it. Wont get any more fluid once its closed off. what do we need to do?

are you trying to bleed the lines or is it no brake pedal? anytime you change brake lines bleeding is hard the best way is fill master cylinder leave top off careful brake fluid will eat the paint then open the two frnt bleeder vales let gravity bleed then it might take up to 5 minutes once fluid starts to flow shut the bleeder vale this should help you good luck Mike

3 ways to bleed.
1) Gravity bleed. Start at the rear wheel brake farthest from the master cylinder. Open the bleeder screw about two full turns, and after a while, the brake fluid which is on top of the air will push the air out. When the brake fluid runs out, close the bleed screw. This can take 1/2 hour sometimes. You must keep checking that wheel so you can close the screw BEFORE you drain your master cylinder!
Continue this with all four wheels. P.S. Sometimes it will not work.Then you have to go to -
2) Bleed with a helper.
Helper gets in the car, and you ask them to push the brake pedal. You open the bleeder screw slowly and carefully, knowing the brake fluid may shoot out violently. Gently open it until bubbles come out. Close the screw, and ask the helper inside to pump up the pedal (about 5 times), and then hold it down medium hard. Continue to open the screw gently until only brake fluid comes out. Close that screw, and move to the next wheel. Repeat on each wheel. Check master cylinder ever few bleeds to keep it full.
or
3) take it somewhere and have it professionally bled with a machine.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

Print
For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

check for fluid before and after the proportioning valve by disconnection the line after the valve and applying the brakes, if no fluid after valve try before valve if fluid is there then it is a bad proportioning valve. you did bleed the master cylinder before connecting the brake line and trying to bleed the brakes all at once right? If the master cylinder was not bled first then a lot of air may have been forced into the rest of the brake lines.

Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.


For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
   

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Tighten the line connection(s).
2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left rear
   3. Right front
   4. Left front
   
   
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
   2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
   
   

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.

1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

blead from the furthest point forward... so , if your master is on the firewall on the drivers side.. rear right , rear left , right front and then left front...

You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

make sure you are bleeding them by doing them as an abs system,do the right rear then the left front,then the left rear then the right front,the opposite wheels are how the system brakes.

Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.

5 Inspect Brake Fluid Type Brake fluid loss or contamination 10 Inspect Master Cylinder (Brake System) Worn or leaking brake master cylinder. 11 Inspect Brake Power Booster Damaged booster vacuum line/check valve, or diaphram