I need to bleed the air out of my clutch on a 96 Maita. where is the nipple on the slave cylinder?

a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out

clutch master cylinders are bled at the slave cylinder bleed nipple. Fill the reservoir and with the help of a friend pump the master cylinder several times and while holding the pedal down open the nipple . Close off and repeat the process . you will get a good clutch pedal with no air coming out of the nipple.

You may not have got all of the air out of the clutch line Try bleeding it again. The sequence is as follows:
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don’t forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don’t introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits securely over the bleed nipple which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles.

Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.

You need to PRE BLEED the master cylinder, or you may never get pressure. Parts houses sell little hoses for this purpose.

Hi if the sidekick is the same as the uk vitara then they don't have a slave cylinder just a clutch cable with a nut near the end to adjust it. If its like a grand vitara they have got a slave cylinder, just crack the bleed nipple off put one end of a small pipe on the end of the nipple and drop the other end in a bottle that is roughly half full of break and clutch fluid, ask someone to pump the clutch pedal until no more air bubbles are coming out then tighten the bleed nipple back up. make sure to keep a check on brake fluid levels while doing this.

You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.

If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
I have replaced both my master and slave cylinders and have found through this experience that you do not need to open and close the bleed nipple. Because of the location of the slave cylinder gravity does the job. Just loosen the slave nipple and let the fluid run out until there is no more air. You might have to pump once or twice but once the fluid starts to move it works on its own. Tighten, nipple and you're done.

I just installed a new clutch master cylinder and was not able to bleed the system however; I continued to pump the clutch many, many, many times. Simply moving fluid and eventually I bagan to get a little pedal back. I then figured that if I parked the car on a downward slope the resivoir would be the tallest component and residual air may rise up ward. This is only a theory and I haven't proven its effectiveness yet. So far, only a little pedal.

hi from the uk the fact your clutch fluid was low? indicates that you have a leak most probably the slave cylinder ? this is the one at g/box that works clutch or the master cylinder this is the one at pedal ? if either cyl leaks then air also can enter the system so look around each cylinder for leaks? if vehicle is needed then for now you will need to bleed air from the slave cyl bleed nipple i suggest you open bleed nipple 2 or 3 turns then remove cap from reservoir flui will emit from nipple eventually in a constant flow then close nipple and top up res then try pedal by pumping? may improve?? but if not then best advice is if leak is from slave cyl? renew it then bleed as above? ps if leak is actually from master cyl? dripping inside near pedal then change both cylinders it is easy d i y job i am sure you can overcome hope this helps? you can try for parts at local motor stores not necessarilly the dealers? and save $$$$s in garage costs? don't forget a bottle of new fluid? for bleeding