My tachometer reads under 1-3 thousand what it should, sometimes over, sometimes it's stuck. then when it gets cold my speedometer will go 5-10 mph under along with my tach acting worse? Is this a big computer problem or can I replace the dash cluster and move on?
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the tach measures the RPM's of the engine. not the speed of the car. in idle park you canrev the engine and the tach will move but you are going no where.. ok.. not sure if this is what you are asking about. but if you think the tach is reading wrong the best way to find out is to attach a tach measurement tool and compare.
The low reading tach issue is due to one or several microchips soldered on to back of cluster circuit board have either weak or cracked solder connections. These weak connections will cause the tach to read incorrect. Over time, the tach reading will become more erratic until complete failure occurs. An electronics repair shop or automotive gauge repair service should be able to correct this issue at a reasonable cost compared to $900+ replacement cost at a dealership. Good luck. Ron @ Speed-O-Repair.
If you replaced the cluster, the tach was replaced. So its probably not a problem with both the old and new tach. Its probably a problem in the wiring to the tach. Put a multimeter across the tach signal wires on AC setting, rev the car, does the meter reading change?
I take it that you only have 1 speedometer and that reads miles per hour or car speed . The left speedo? is in reality a tachometer and reads the engine revolutions per minute. When the engine is cold (before it reaches operating temperature) the CPU will keep the rpm's above 1000 (1 x1000) and when that temperature is reached the idle speed is reduced to normal operating rpm's. So yes it is normal. All you need to do is know the difference and the meaning of all the gauges.
1997 GMC Subburban 1500 loses Tach Speedo and Trans sticks in High Gear. I changed the ignition Starter switch which I read was the problem but problem is intermittant and still exist? AMMCO told me to try changing the Neutral Saftey switch first, but didn't say why?
Do the following:1)key in the ON position:remove the 7.5 gauge fuse.Tach needle should read "0:". 2)put it back,go on the engine and unplug the green plug on the igniter -the big one,with 5 or 6 wires on it.The needle on tach reading should be zero.If not you have a short circuit on the black wire between that plug and the plug on the conbination meter.3) If the reading is zero with the plug disconnected,the black wire for the tach is short-circuited inside the igniter. I have one available.email [email protected]
This all depends on when you are reading the rpms becaus ethe engine will run faster when you first start it to bring it up to operating temperature than it will drop down to about 700-800 when the engine is warm. i recommend letting your engine warm up, than read your tach and if it is still reading 1000 rpms than reduce it down to 700-800. your ECU will compensate for this when your engine is cold.
this could also be a possible bad Idle Air Control Valve because your engine speed should be regulated by the computer.
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