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fran cooper Posted on Dec 13, 2015
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What to do when front wheel locks up while driving

Put new brake pads on, new sensor, new hose for fluid, cleaned it up...bled the brakes.

1 Answer

Adrian Jaramillo

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  • Expert 308 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2015
Adrian Jaramillo
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Bleed both lines at master cylinder, then all wheel cylinders..

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 335 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2008

SOURCE: Front Brake Pads locked up on Rotor

Have the brake pads been so very work they are down to the metal? This could cause the caliper piston to extend too far and not be able to retract properly.
Calipers Fail mostly from a cut in the rubber boot around the pistion dirt and debris get in there and rust the piston and it cannot retract properly Do they retract after they cool Down? if so the brake fluid has "boiled" if brake fluid is not changed about every 24,000 miles condensation builds up and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid causing this problem.
Tell me does it happen after a long drive or siting a long time in heavy bumper to bumper traffic in hot summer weather? I recommend a complete brake fluid flush an change the calipers with NEW ones ot rebuilt and use dielectric grease on all points of metal to metal contact between the caliper an the mount bracket and thee ends of thee pada n the slide points they ride on and the pins that go through thecaliper and thread into the mount only dielectric not regular grease it will cause sticking and a worse problem than you have now.

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Anonymous

  • 1450 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2008

SOURCE: Right front wheel/disc brake? heat up

most likely a brake line causing problem. it is either the rubber hose or caliper sticking. the rubber hose will collapse and cause pressure to stay on the caliper

Anonymous

  • 251 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2008

SOURCE: 98 caravan no abs

u need to bleed ur brakes some more Helping one person at a time Shaun

Anonymous

  • 1111 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 20, 2009

SOURCE: 1996 dodge ram 3500, abs brakes are locking up

is it the front or rear locking up? you really have to have this truck loaded (load valve under bed) before the back brakes come on and i think these are the same as my 1999 2500 where the rear is only abs, and not on the front..dumb design i know, but thats how it is...determining if its rear abs only and which axle is locking up will help pin point the problem...i put 100000 miles on my dodge since i got it in 2001 and i put 8 sets of pads on the front and just changed the rear lining and thats only because the rear wheel cylinder was leaking causing the rear brakes to lock up..

Anonymous

  • 3600 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2009

SOURCE: rear brakes locking(until abs kicks in) with

Even if the proportioning valve is wide open the rear brakes should not lock up, this is indicative of the front piston not working on the master cylinder, if there was a problem with the abs it would throw a code so to check use two people to do this one to apply the brakes and one to tun the wheel. apply the brake gently while turning it by hand with all 4 wheels off the ground, if the wheels stop at the same time for all for wheels then you have another problem, Do this with the key on engine off in neutral. It sounds like you have a problem with the primary brake shoe the front of drum brake in rear or if disk then the disk brake. Check to see if the Emergency brake cables are not binding if the e-brake is disc the wire cable where the wheel splitter is may be frayed and is keeping the emergency brakes applied and causing this to happen. If this is not explained in a way you can understand post a reply and tell me to clarify if you don't understand what I am saying. The reason I say to do it without running is it will not use the ABS system to mess with your results this will test the mechanical area, thats where i think the problem is. If you let to much fluid drain out it is possible when you started bleeding the brakes if you did not bleed the fronts first you may have damaged the master cylinder piston seal for the disk brakes.

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2answers

I have a 2003 chevy avalanche z71 4 wheel drive and i replace the caliper twice how's the rotor and the brake pad the brakes have been bled and the caliper still it's stuck open on the passenger front tire...

Sometimes contaminated brake fluid will cause a flexible brake hose to perish internally and prevent fluid flowing.
This isn't likely to be your problem considering you have bled the brake and probably had a good delivery of fluid. Considering the caliper is new and presumably has a good fluid delivery to it there seems no reason why the caliper doesn't move out and grip the rotor as it should.

I remember a similar problem where the pads were fitted with a strong anti-rattle spring. If the spring was incorrectly fitted it was strong enough to push the caliper piston back...
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94' Honda Accord 5 door, Driver side caliper piston remains stuck in closed position constantly applying constant brake pressure to driver side front wheel brake piston.

if the caliper is ok it sounds like the flexiable hose is restrcted by the metal crimps on the hose corroded and crushing the reinforced rubber hose restricting the fluid returning back in to the system. change the hose
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1988 crown victoria ltd new brakes seizing up

Where to start. . . .
A defective hose would only affect that wheel.
A faulty booster or master cylinder could cause the front wheels to lock and at varied amounts. You may have a metering block or just a junction block for the front lines. It would be mounted near the frame if you have one. Some Ford models from 88 - 92 used a master cylinder with the metering valve built in.
Its possible the front calipers got hot enough with the old pads to damage both front hoses.
I would want to know what it takes to release the pressure on the pads. Do you have to take the hoses loose, or just the bleeder screws on the calipers ? Or are the calipers not sliding back and forth ?
5helpful
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I have a 2004 Tahoe I changed my front brakes and rotors but when I come to a stop my brakes continue to lock up from time to time but the more I drive they lock up at every stop sign or red light. Any...

Hello uncleel03,

There 3 item to look at:

1. Are the caliper mounting slide pins free and lubricated?
If not, the pins and bracket s need to be cleaned and lubricated.

2. Was a new hardware kit installed on a clean caliper mounting bracket and do the brake pad move freely in the bracket?
If not, the bracket needs to be cleaned and all rust removed from where the hardware kits attaches to the bracket.

3. Did the pistons in the calipers compress easily?
If not the caliper may need to be replaced. I say "may" because a bad brake hose can cause resistance when compressing the caliper so you will need to isolate the cause of the resistance.

Testing:

Safely lift and support the vehicle.

Have an assistant press and hold the brake peddle while you try to turn the wheel; as you are trying to turn the wheel have the assistant release the brake peddle, the brake should release immediately and the wheel should turn freely if not there is a problem with ether the caliper or brake hose.

To determine where the fault is you will need to remove the tire and have your assistant apply and release the brake. If the brake remains engaged open the bleeder if the brake releases the brake hose is the problem and needs to be replaced, if not the caliper needs to be replaced.

Repeat this procedure on the other side to determine it's integrity.

Of course you will need to bleed the brakes after these tests and after the new parts are installed before you can drive the vehicle.

I hope this help.

Regards,
netvan
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Front and rear drum brakes, the pads are ok, but the brake pedal started going to the floor. When I tried to bleed them, the rear bleeder screws broke. So I replaced both wheel cylinders. The rubber...

OK........as you have stated that you have bled the brakes properly.....was there fluid coming out each bleed nipple as a flowing stream...????

And did you shut off the bleed nipple half way down stroke....?????

If this is all ok, then I would be looking at a failed master cylinder.......and what is occurring is the fluid is leaking from the primary to the secondary within the master cylinder !!!!!
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Brake on front passenger side continuously locks up (seizes). Have replaced the master cylinder, rotor, pads and caliper but problem persists. System was bled entirely and new brake fluid flushed througout...

Replace the brake hose. An internal tear in the hose can allow fluid to flow into the caliper, but collapse inside not allowing the pressure to release.
6helpful
5answers

Brake pedal goes to the floor only when engine is running. Pedal is perfect with engine off.

your power brake booster is blown out
the seal has a leak in it
run the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off. with the windows up listen carefully while you gently apply the brakes
listen for a hissing sound of air leaking.
the sound of these leaking is a very soft sound
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Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.

Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.
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1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.
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Removal of brake calipers and pads on 1992 xj6 jaguar

Hi Jasa

Unless you are mechanically competent, I would not advise you carry out this procedure yourself, but leave it to the professionals.

If you are mechanically minded, and competent, the pads are relatively easy to replace, as follows.

Jack up the vehicle and put on stands, if you don´t have access to a hoist?

Remove wheels, and open the hood, put some kitchen roll around the brake fluid reservoir, to catch any excess brake fluid, when you push back the brake caliper pistons, if it´s been overfilled.
On the front brake caliper's, you are best to put in a little lever between pads and disc, and ease back the piston to fully retracted, unless you have a small G clamp which will do the same job when caliper is adrift.

Remove the 2 x 13mm caliper securing bolts and swing off the caliper, and support with a piece of wire, don´t just let it dangle on the brake hose.
Remove the brake pads, and sensor wire, check the caliper piston dust cover for splits, and clean caliper, housing, etc, and disc, with brake cleaner.

Fit the new brake pads to the caliper, and refit with 2 new securing bolts with blue lock tite, (normally supplied with the B/Pads.)

The rear caliper´s are pretty much the same as the front, although you can just undo the top bolt and swing the caliper back, but I usually remove both, for ease of cleaning, and inspection.

After rear caliper´s and pads and sensor wire, and new bolts are fitted, pump the brake pedal with the ignition on, and just run around, and check there are no leaks from the caliper pistons.
Check the fluid level, and lower with suction syringe if necessary.

By the way, 1. When did you last change your brake fluid ?
2. Adjust your front wheel bearings end float ?

You could do this now before you fit the wheels.?

Let me know if you wish the details for that too ?

Good luck !

Don´t forget to give me a FixYa rating please !

John.





Then refit wheels, drop down the car,
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