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Julia Manning Posted on Dec 29, 2015
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How can I take the front seat out if it is stuck forward so that I cannot get to back bolts that hold it in place?

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flarustler

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  • Chevrolet Expert 160 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2016
flarustler
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Joined: Mar 03, 2013
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If it is a manual seat there is cable under the seat that pulls out the lock tabs on the track. You can use plyers to pull the broken cable to release the seat. If it is a motor you will have to release the motor from the brackets and the seat will slide freely as the motor is the stop and the release.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 11896 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: Remove front seats 1996 Camaro

with a flashlight, needle nose, and flathead screwdriver; :look underneath to wear the handle cables are connected to little clips on the slider rails. Try to pull out and hold one clip with pliers and do the same on other side with flathead. When clips are pointed out the seat will slide until you let go of the clips. I am guessing that one of the cables attached to the handle is either missing or caught up on something.

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Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2009

SOURCE: 94 silverado driver seat stuck

Go under the seat and check both slide tracks for anything jamming it up...I've removed gloves, socks, candy boxes etc from tracks. Also if its not a power seat, check that when you move the release lever it is connected by a stiff wire to the opposite side. That wire releases the right side track. If broken or stretched, it wont.

john h

  • 29494 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2010

SOURCE: theres a crazy looking bolt holding my front seats

its a-- torx head bolt--looks like a weird star shape basically any place that sells tools carry s them also a few auto stores carry them

Anonymous

  • 4399 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 05, 2011

SOURCE: the front passenger seat in my 2010 chevy camaro

Make sure there is nothing caught on the two track bars.

Anonymous

  • 400 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2011

SOURCE: the seat tilt moves forward

All the motors under the seat are bi-directional, meaning you can apply power (12V) on one side and ground on the other, it will turn in one direction. If you reverse the wires it will move in the opposite direction. Quite often the motors fail, but if it at least works in one direction it's usually a wiring issue. Follow the wires from the failed motor to the connector, and jumper them both. The motor should move backwards, and you'll have to find the problem in the wiring. If it doesn't move, lightly tap on the motor with power and ground supplied, if it now moves the motor is starting to fail

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How do I remove Front Passenger Seat in a 2001 Lincoln LS or lift it to see under it?

The seat is connected with 2 bolts in the front and 2 nuts in the back...which are accessible by moving the seat backwards or forwards. There is really no way to just remove the cushions while the seat is in place.
So before seat removal ... I would cut a metal coat hanger. Bend so there is at least 2 feet straight with a about a 1/8"-1/4" small 90 degree bend at the end. I would fish that down from the front with the seat fully back ... between the console and seat ... as far down as you can and try hooking the ring ... even though you can not see it ... you may hit it and can push or pull it so you can then see it. But you are correct, that it could be in the track ... in which case the coat hanger will do nothing.
Then I would remove the 2 bolts up front and loosen the rear nuts but not totally remove the nuts. You could then hopefully just tilt the seat backwards without disconnecting all the wiring harnesses....to uncover the ring. If the ring is in the track ... you may have to totally remove remove the seat.
The front bolts may not be that easy to remove due to corrosion etc on an 18 year old car.
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
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Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.
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