Why is there strut and axle noise in rear?

Some things to check:

• CV axles (a telltale sign of bad or wearing axles is noise)
• Suspension bushings (sway bar bushings, etc)
• Motor mounts (including transmission mounts)
• Control arms/ball joints (some aftermarkets fail out of the box)
• Strut mounts (worn or faulty strut mounts can cause noise)
• Proper torque spec for all suspension components

There should be a circlip on the inner joint that holds it in the spyder gear set.

suggest that you talk with a diff reconditioning specialist center
if you have excessive pinion to ring gear clearance the diff will be making terrible noises not a clunk
what you have is worn side gear washers in the diff carrier and that is not essential to repair unless you get diff noise on turning corners
All diffs have play in the diffs that most people say is pinion /ring gear problems when it is not
the clunk noise comes from engaging a gear and the diff housing reacts to the load ( radius rod bushes , stabilizer bar bushes etc), the side gears take up the clearance, and the
"U " joints or cv joints take any wear
Best advice is--- if all you have is a clunk ( check everything outside the diff first) and the diff runs quiet under acceleration or deceleration, DON'T fix what ain't broken

Basic tools..remove wheel, remove axle nut, remove brake caliper, remove lower control arm bolts,remove the bolt for upper control arm, remove the outer tie rod bolt, support vehicle and suspension, the hardest part is getting the axle out of the rear diff, sometimes a simple pry bar will pop it out, but I've run into a lot where you either need the special pickle fork or even have to remove the complete rear diff with axle still attached, remove cover and take out c clip.if you continue prying and hammering between inner cv joint and diff, you will cause damage to diff.the cv joint is steel, cast maybe, and diff is aluminum so guess what will be damaged first? That'll lead into a pretty expensive repair.the special tool to remove axle is 205-529

Bad CV Axle Joint

1. bad tire
2. bad rotor
3. bad axle

check tire first . not cv boot it just a cover for the axle - hold grease - dont let dirt in axle nuckles.under cv boot is the axle joint if boot is torn it lets grease out an dirt in an drys the joint out causing problems....

Best to replace both sides and yes it is the whole axle assembly for each side, as for the struts on the back there are no springs on these struts.

i have the exact same problem ive got 2001 honda civic and have an annoying rattle from the wheel area. i have replaced cv joint, ball joint, sway bar drop links, strut, and suspension bushing and arm....but still rattle noise is there. dnt have a clue what it could be, from looking on the internet i have found few possibilities.....lower control arm/bushin...motor mounts....gear box mounts....strut rod bushing....axle....inner/outer cv joint....calliper pins......shock/shock bushing...or wheel bearing. im hoping tio get all this checked out its got to be able to be fixed somehow!

A CV joint - when going bad - is more of a clicking sound.. Not so much a knocking sound.. And tends to get louder when turning & accelorating..

Hope this helps !!
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a loud pop is either cv axle or ball joint so i would try ball joints or could be a-arm bushings also