Sounds like you may need a new thermostat
Under what conditions
parked hot
parked cold
both
only idling
or only racing engine fast
or at all times or???? you say.....??????
we cant guess conditions, must be stated.
ill now answer for parked cold.
rad cap bad, vacuum breaker bad.
is this bad,or stuck or missing or wrong cap?
try a usa STANT cap, no cloned junk
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/capguts.JPG
To add to the pumpman's analysis.
- When the engine is running, the heat causes the engine coolant to expand, forcing it past the radiator cap into the coolant reservoir.
- When the engine is turned off, it cools down. The volume of the coolant decreases, and coolant is supposed to be sucked back past the radiator cap from the reservoir into the engine cooling system.
- If a radiator hose has collapsed, the radiator cap or the hose connecting the radiator to the reservoir are preventing the coolant from flowing back.
- So...........
I'd be replacing the radiator cap and checking to make sure that the hose is not plugged.
- Also, if the hosed that collapsed is soft and "spongy", it should be replaced as it could be that it is not structurally capable of accomodating the negative pressure that is needed before the coolant can flow back through the radiator cap.
If you have any questions, reply as a COMMENT ro this post.
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
Hi , it sounds like you have caused a vacum i.e. not enough water in the system. You have to check you car when the engine and water has cooled down. The expansion tank is were the water level has a line you must fill it up to the level line with water when the engine is cold. And when its cold weather you have to use antifreeze to top up the level.
never trust the side tank (expansion) on old cars
the rad cap is bad.
if not bad, the expanding hot coolant
expandes to the expansion tank, hoses not bad
then when coolant cools (physic's HS)
the rad goes negative pressure and sucks
said fluid back to rad, and magically keeps RAD full at all times. but on old cars, this fails often.
buy a new cap
check hose from rad neck to side tank(cracks)
check that the hose inside tank did not fall off as most do this old (now sucks air)
if it sucks air not the rad level drops.
good shops, check all this easy stuff.
why not get live real persons to fix cars
not the blind here guessing on bad inputs
(and me)
some cars then bottom rad hose,huge suck side) collapse,(under load,fast)
Some even have a spring inside
that can rust to zero.
or that fleabay cloned hose its missing....
this prevents collapse driving hard.
some cheap clone hoses, from 12,000 miles sw of here,are junk for this engine.
the raD can clog too, and if did,that cheap hose might collapse when driven hard ,unseen by you, usually not seen at hot idle, parked.
.
50% AF at all times, it raises boiling point and IS NOT optional..
the rad cap has a vacuum breaker device, its bad. next.
seen here.http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/ca...
if this fails the hoses will want to collapse
if the hose collapse under huge engine loads
that is a totally other matter.
and can roast a good engine fast
some good hose are multilayers. and tuff
and need no anticollapse spring inside
real jeep hoses?
other cloned are pure junk.
use a new hose and new cap from jeep
and WIN>!
if no jeep dealer
get hoses from GATES
Gates sells to the major car makers,
for good reason, quality and consistency.
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