Question about 1993 Chevrolet S-10
And on the dash the brake light is dimly lit when I push the emergency brake it lights up but the light stays on dimly
Possible brake fluid level warning sensor problem in the master cylinder. Disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor in the master cylinder. If the light goes out, suspect the sensor. If the light continues to illuminate dimly, suspect a short to power in the harness on that circuit. Further diagnostics will be required to locate the problem
Posted on Jan 13, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you might have a caliper that is stuck and is not fully disengaging. If it is in the rear then you may have a bad rear caliper. Twoo things you can try. One is to crawl under the ca and adjust the tension two nuts on the emergency brake line. If that does not resolve the problem then remove the back tire and try to spin the drum or rotor whichever you may have. If it does not spin then try adjusting the e brake cable more if it still does not respond then you need to do a brake rebuild. Also does it pull while it is dragging? If it is then you will need to rebuild the brakes no matter what.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
This wiring problem can be much more costly, and time consuming, than you want to take on.
Professional mechanics cringe, when a wiring problem of this magnitude comes their way!
It's probably a bad ground for the instrument cluster.
The instrument cluster housing is plastic. There is a flat, thin, 2 to 3 inch wide, piece of plastic that is the wiring harness for this instrument cluster.
In this flat piece of plastic, are thin flat copper strips. These are like wires, to conduct the electricity to the gauges, lights, and the rest of the instrumentation.
Since the plastic instrument cluster is not metal, and therefore it can't be used as a Ground source, the flat piece of plastic I mentioned above, has a Ground wire to it. May be more than one.
This ground wire/s could have corrosion on the terminal end, where it attaches to the truck body.
Bad ground, everything goes haywire. The ground wires, might loose on the terminals used for the flat piece of plastic.
Another source of a bad ground problem overlooked, is that the cab of a truck receives it's,
Main ground from the engine.
There should be Two ground straps, coming from the firewall over to the engine. Sometimes, when the upper part of an engine, or the engine is replaced, the mechanic neglects to reinstall these ground straps.
Sometimes just one ground strap is reinstalled, and this is No good!
Also both terminal ends of these ground straps are a good source for corrosion to develop.
Corrosion makes a bad contact.
I myself would take the truck back.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
I had a similar problem with my 1994 S-10 LS extended cab. Both tail brake lights worked fine. I removed the 3rd brake light cover and tested for voltage at the steel center of the two rivets and found the positive (driver side) negative (passenger side) were good. I checked the two metal strips that send power to bulbs and found the positive side was open. Seems the flared side of the rivet was not making contact with the metal strip. I bucked the rivet with a punch and hammer and it took care of the problem.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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