Yellow/Orange engine light on the dashboard what is the problem?T

you will have to disconnect 1 circuit at a time and find the problem, have many ideas at once, like 5 things changed at once, problem solved? 4 items were OK but you still don't know what the problem was. just 1 at a time

Hi, your blower switch is shown below. Unless there are marks on the terminals, you will need to test the switch to figure out which wire goes where. It is best to use an ohmmeter for this purpose, but you could also use a 12 volt test light. To use a test light, you will need to connect the test light clip to the battery and use a jumper wire from the other battery terminal to the switch. Basically, you need to determine which 2 terminals are connected for each setting of the switch. Use your ohmmeter probes across 2 terminals of the switch or the test light with jumper wires to find out which terminals are connected for each switch setting. There is one terminal that the switch connects to each of the other terminals, depending on the switch setting. The one terminal that connects to each of the other terminals will use the orange wire. Once you find that terminal, connect your probe or test light there and probe each of the other terminals for each switch setting. The terminal that connects when the switch is set to medium low gets the green wire. The one that connects when the switch is set to medium high gets the yellow wire. The black wire goes to the last terminal, which should connect when the switch is set to high. If you connect the wires incorrectly, it will not harm anything, but the switch will not work correctly. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

why did you disconnect the battery cables to do an oil change.make sure the terminals(both battery and cables) are clean and tight.this may be all it is.you don`t say but if you have anti-theft on the car it may need to be reset to start the car.

The big red battery wire goes to the bigger terminal on the starter solenoid.There may be another red wire smaller in diameter but the eye should be same as the battery wire that also goes to the to the same solenoid terminal.
The third wire small again ,might be yellow/orange or red with a small eye goes to the start terminal on the starter solinod.

O.k the best advise I can give is to disconnect the battery possitive terminal for about 15 min. This should reset your dash lights. Drive for a few days and see if they come back on. This time they might send a code to you. Try you Autozone or prts store to have it scanned. They do it for free.

the battery is no good have an AVR test done,if it is good there is a fusible link that goes to the feedback circuit on the alternator in alot of cars.if the alternator went,it could have blown the fuse link.if you put a charged up battery in there it will run quite a while. but the battery could have been bad and thats what took out the alternator...the other thing you may want to look for is something draining the battery,disconnect the terminal,and put a current meter in series.it should be 1 to 2 milliamps only.sometimes a glovebox light,trunk light etc,drains the battery.

The orange light is probably the pads wear indicator showing that the pads are worn out and the cutting out probably you need your car serviced and tune.
Cheers

I'm having same problem on my 2000 model rodeo 4wd 3.2L V6. Other day check engine light came on. I checked engine bay nothing abnormal, or power loss. Next day light was gone. 2 days later driving, a sudden loss of power and light came up. After idling for a couple of minutes, drove off with light still on but all power back. 1 hour later of faultless driving loss of power for a minute or so. Engine temp normal. Had break for 1/2 hour and set off for last hour of journey without fault except check engine light still on. Following dayon startup light went out???
Seeking help from experts.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf
there u go

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, definitely an electrical issue. Some ideas to check, consider and/or explore:

• IGN switch - check for loose, corroded or heating connections. To test, under normal usage of the vehicle, should feel warm but not overly hot. If so, then possibly loose connection;
• fuse/relay box - check for loose, corroded or burned terminals, holders, clips and connectors/pins. Use an electrical contact cleaner and spray. It may also be necessary to scrape to remove burnt marks/corrosion;
• fusible link - the battery would have 2 wires connected to the + terminal. The big wire goes to the starter, the smaller of the two is the electrical systems main wire. This normally goes to the fuse/relay box. Check for frayed ends, loose connection, corroded terminals. In some instances instead of being at the battery's + terminal, it is connected to the end of the big cable down at the starter motor.
• ALL connectors with big wires - these carry the main +12 either as always ON, ACC or IGN. If a connector has a wire bigger than the others, check them. It may be necessary to disconnect to enable you access to the inside pins/terminals. Scrape them clean.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.