What causes my rear brakes not to get enough pressur to bleed them

check and examine flex line usual problem --or internal caliper problem

Your vehicle should have rear drum brakes...They have to be adjusted manually for correct adjustment...People say they self adjust but it is not good enough....by adjusting the rear it will decrease the pressure on the front and deliver equal braking...This will help eliminate caliper pressure overload....I'm not saying that is your caliper problem but it is insult to injury and will save the life of front brakes.....Now your caliper problem..FYI..A rule of thumb is anytime you change a caliper you should always replace both calipers to have identical braking pressure".The same with brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders.....The caliper that froze in the first place got hot and boiled the brake fluid and quite possibly partially collapsed the caliper brake line/hose inside as Clint and Frank stated....I am going to guess that the first caliper froze under normal conditions however got hot enough to internally damage the caliper line/hose...Then you may think of the pressure regulator being bad in which case could be a problem......So this is what you do".Since we know the left front caliper line/hose has been exposed to heat it needs to be replaced anyway...also the fluid was boiled and it needs to be changed / bled...The new caliper that froze should be ok unless it was bad off the shelf which is rare but possible."..Change the line/hose,bleed the brake system and let the mechanic test drive before you pay and leave..The mechanic will know before driving if the new caliper that froze is bad or not by rotating the wheel...This is the cheapest way...And you will know if the pressure regulator is bad or not just by bleeding system........I hope this helps....."Brooks/Metalpoet....."....

Hi Tommy, I'm glad to help! There are only 5 things that can cause brakes to hold: (1) Calipers are sticking. NOTE: There are several reasons calipers stick, there are internally frozen meaning you need new calipers. Here's how to check them release the nut that holds the hose to the caliper when the fluid bleed out and the calipers do not release pressure from the brakes then they are internally frozen, replace them. (2) Hose's are calapsed internally. You check the hoses in the same way, release the bolt and if the calipers DO Release pressure from the brakes then you know it's the hoses. (3) The actual metal lines going to the back of the Vehicle could be damaged. Example: One time one of the rear brakes would not release pressure and I found where the line goes acroos the rear axle something had hit the line and smashed it flat and so it was holding brake pressure on the wheel. (4) Let's not forget how much dirt and grime builds up on the brakes themselves. Example: I found one time where the LANDS where the brake shoes slide were so dirty that the brake pad itself was stuck and holding the brake pressure on that wheel. (5) The Master Cylinder, not very often, but I have seen the ports in the master cylinder clog-up and will not bleed back to release brake pressure. This is a few thing for you to check out that will help you find the problem yourself and save you money. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Tommy.

Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.

bench bleed the master cylinder then start bleeding at the rear passenger then rear driver, front passenger then finally front driver hopefully that helps you

Replace caliper with old brake pads put 1 bolt in place to hold together while taking a large screwdriver and prying caliper piston so that it compresses piston & block wedge to rear of bracket it should make enough room to install on new brake pads, the other way is to use a large c clamp put 1/4 pice of wood in between c clamp and caliper so you don't damage or Mar the caliper also check YouTube.

well on vehicles with ABS you have to start at the furthest brake location, so the order in which to follow is Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Really good investment to buy a one person bleeding tool, but if you have a friend with an hour to spare just get them to pump the brakes 3 times and than hold to the floor while you open the bleeder valve located on your calipers/drums, make sure they hold down until you open the valve for 1 sec to release pressure and hopefully all the nasty air, than they can release and just keep going till there is a steady stream of fluid, hope this helps.

Gravity bleed caliper, just open valve and have a coffee break and close it. Did you buy a loaded caliper with new pads on it? Check the rear wheel cylinders they may be the cause of your mushy pedal. They are cheap too.

it's only supposed to adjust to the point where it works...otherwise it would tighten up from use and stop you dead.

to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.