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My rotors on my Jimmy get real hot, I have changed the calipers, Rubber Brake Lines, master cylinder, flushed the brake lines and changed the ABS Braking system and my front rotors still get super hot. If they are wraped will this cause them too over heat?
Re: Will wraped brake rotors cause them to get hot
Sounds like they a warped because they got hot are these the rear rotors ? i would check for collapsed rubber lines, sticking calipers, sticking pads in the mounting brackets frozen e-brake cable the same can be checked on the front minus the e-brke cable
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probably none of the above
have the brake master cylinder replaced first
then work on the pins that allow the calliper body to self center
probably seized on the pins holding one pad on the rotor
The master cylinder. What you have is something that is pressurizing the front brake circuit but not the rear. The only possibilities would be the Master Cylinder or a proportioning valve.
There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder
Rotors do not warp. Maybe on a NASCAR Cup Car, when they get red hot,not a passenger car.
Unless you have experience with replacing,servicing,bleeding ,and working on a braking system,the $2,500 is about right.
How did that happen? Jiffy Lube or something.?
Putting a kit in the calipers or replacing them,cleaning out the master and new kit,if they still sell them,and flushing the system, is not an issue. May take you three days,but I spend about a week every year, on my brakes.
The problem and the expense,is the ABS Controller. Big dollar item there.
All the parts you need are avail at any auto parts store. You want to use Wagner,Raybestos or a quality brand
Tools---Flair Nut Wrenches,10mm,13mm,5/16",3/8",1/2'' ETC for brake line fittings etc
Maybe torx drivers for some items, to remove.
You need me, or someone, as a neighbor,to get you thru this.
The master cylinder supplies the pressure to the brake fluid that travels between the maste brake cylinder resevoir and the brake caliper pistons (through the brake lines. If the master cylinder fails there will be insufficient compression of the brake fluid to make the calipers operate as designed. Leaks in the brake lines and/or cylinders is a possibility, and unrelated to functionality of the master cylinder. Also, pistons located in the brake calipers can form a corrosion ring on their inside walls if there is breakdown in the brake fluid or moisture that gets into the lines. Operating the vehicle when there is insufficient brake fluid in the master cylinder resevoir can also lead to air getting into the brake lines, causing bad working brakes. Air compresses more than brake fluid, and the master cylinder isn't designed to compress air in the brake lines. Sounds like a bad case of "lack of maintenance", as opposed to bad advice from the mechanics. That said, there's no excuse for bad installation. But, it's tough to improperly install a brake line since they are nothing more than hollow metal tubes. There should be no rubber connectors installed in the brake lines. When bleeding the brake lines one must remove all of the trapped air before you will see any fluid appear. If the valves in the master cylinder are not properly operating the master cylinder will not allow the brake fluid to get into the brake lines.
Replace brake hoses,they have an inner core that has ruptured and the outside rubber core is keeping pressure on the caliper with you foot off the brake. This will fix it! A common problem for this vehicle.
Did you use DOT # 3 Brake fluid to fill up the master cylinder like your suppose to or did you use DOT #5 that your not suppose to use???find that bottle let me know asap.John
28-DEC-08
Sometimes (when changing the brake calipers on disk brakes, or changing wheel cylinders on drum brake systems) the mechanic will clamp a vise grip pliers on the rubber hose to prevent hydraulic fluid from dripping out. This can break the internal fiber lining in the rubber hose. Then the fluid flow can be blocked. When you press the brake pedal, fluid may not flow to the wheel or wheels. As you press harder, the fluid may suddenly flow through the line, causing the brakes to suddenly activate.
Or an even more likely problem, your brakes drag (stay on) and get hot, because the fluid cannot flow back to the master cylinder when you release the brake pedal. In other words, when you press the brake you force fluid through a partially blocked rubber hose. But the return of the fluid (backwards through the rubber hose) is caused not by pressure, but just by equilibrium, a balancing act. Well, if the line (rubber hose) is blocked, the fluid stays in the caliper or wheel cylinder, and the brake is still on, and the brake gets hot.
Ken
Camas, Washington
[email protected]
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