How do i straighten out my front bumper after small fender accident

Have you checked and reset the Fuel Cut Off Inertia Switch ?

This is the safety device that stops the fuel pump from running continuously and spurting fuel everywhere in the event of an accident. It's been a standard if not mandatory fitment for the last 25 or 30 years for vehicles with fuel injection.

Sometimes these "trip" due to a relative small bump that's not because of in accident

You don't say what vehicle you have the problem with so can't advise as to where this is located.

I've encountered them mounted in the spare wheel well,
in a hole in the plastic trim inside the boot/trunk just in front of the rear bumper/fender
but most frequently accessed through a small hole in a "kick panel" in the front passenger foot well

If tripped the button will have "popped up" and just needs depressing to reset it

Lift the front end of the car and support on stands.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the fowards under-tray.
Remove the forward halves of the front wheel arch liners.
Unscrew the small down-facing Torx screw at each top rear corner of the bumper.
Gently pry inwards the rear end of the U-shaped steel channel that holds the fender and bumper flanges together.
Pull the channel rearwards to disengage the lugs from the diagonal slots at the forward end, and remove the channels.
Disconnect the external air temp sensor in the bottom left air intake.
Disconnect the parking sensors connector at the right rear corner. You need to open the lever lock and pull hard without damaging the wiring.
Open the hood and remove two bolts on top of the bumper, next to the inner headlamp mountings.
Remove two nuts in lower grille - vertically beneath above bolts.
If its your first time, get a friend and pull the bumper forwards very slowly and gently, avoiding scratching the fenders.
The bumper is surprisingly light.

It will take about an hour.

I believe there will be many screws under the car with the splash shield that must be removed. Remove screws/retainers from the fender well liner in each wheel well, but only toward the front (no need to remove the entire thing). Behind the fender liner toward the front of the car you'll see some screws/clips holding the bumper to the front/bottom of the fender.
You'll need to remove each turn signal in the front of the bumper with a long phillips screwdriver. Use a flashlight to look in from the middle of the lower bumper and you'll see a hole where the screw driver goes in (loosen the screw, but it probably wont come out). Pop the lamp assembly out, but don't force it- the opposite side of the lamp has a tab that fits in a slot to help hold it in place.
Look straight back from where the turn signal lamps were removed and you'll see 2 bolts on a metal bracket. There are 2 on each side, behind each lamp. You'll need some long extensions to get all the way in there. Be sure to support the bumper as you take these out, because they are the main support points for the bumper assembly.
Once these are out, the bumper should come off, or at lease you'll see if there were any small screws you missed. FYI, I left almost all of the screws out of my bumper (except one on each side where it attaches to the fender), so all I have to do is remove those 4 main bolts behind the turn signal lights to drop the bumper.

NOPE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE FRONT FENDERS AND BUMPER COVER. REASON YOU HAVE TO REMOVE FENDERS AND BUMPER COVER.YOU CANT REMOVE RADIATOR HOSES AND REMOVE COOLING FANS.FENDERS AND BUMPER COVER IN THE WAY.

have 96, 95 similar

Section 01-19: Bumpers 1996 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Bumper and Bumper Cover Front
Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front wheel (1007).
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front fender splash shield screws. Remove the RH and LH front fender splash shields (16102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the four front fender brace screws.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two front fender brace nuts.
   

1. Remove the two plastic screws.
   

1. Remove the seven clip buttons located under the front bumper cover (17D957).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front turn signal lamps (13369). Refer to Section 17-01 for the removal procedure.
   

1. Remove the four front bumper cover brace bolts.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front bumper cover from the vehicle.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two front turn signal lamp wire harnesses from the front bumper (17757).
   
   
   
   
2. Remove the eight front bumper bolts.

1. Remove the front bumper from the vehicle.
   

Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.

check your mechanics re-wire job lol

collisionrepairadvice.com  you can most likely find the parts at the local junk yard.  Yes with some skill and tools you can do these repairs yourself...Good luck

if im not mistaken, its going to be a little tricky to do with the front bumper on. but you should have 2 10mm bolts on the top, take them out. if it has the removable side marker light, take the small screw out of the top, and remove it. you will have to take the bumper loose on the ends, then pull it out torwards you and down. you should find another bolt going through the fender into the headlamp, at the front of the fender behind the bumper. then there is another bolt at the front of the lamp under it, behind the bumper. its kinda tough to get to. unplug it and try to worm it out. the easiest way is to have the bumper off. but that is only an option if you cant get to the bolts w/o messing something up.