Check engine light showing on idling with higher cranky sound within the top cylinder.

Hi Chris.

p0304 = Number 4 Cylinder Misfire Detected

Faulty spark plug 4
Clogged or faulty fuel injector 4
Faulty ignition coil 4
Fuel injector 4 harness is open or shorted
Fuel injector 4 circuit poor electrical connection
Ignition coil 4 harness is open or shorted
Ignition coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection
Insufficient cylinder 4 compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
Intake air leak

The P0304 code means that the cylinder 4 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 4.


p0102 = Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

Faulty mass air flow sensor
Intake air leaks
Dirty mass air flow sensor
Dirty mass air filter
Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted
Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Before replacing the mass air flow sensor, try replacing the air filter and cleaning the air flow sensor with low compress air or mass air flow sensor cleaner.
Reset code and drive vehicle.
If the code comes back, it may be necessary to replaced the mass air flow sensor.


p0154 = O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Sensor 1 Bank 2

Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2
Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 harness is open or shorted
Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection
Inappropriate fuel pressure
Faulty fuel injectors
Intake air leaks may be faulty
Exhaust gas leaks

Replacing the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 usually takes care of the problem.


p0113 = Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High

Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Dirty air filter
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection

The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is built into mass air flow sensor or in some vehicles mounted to the air filter duct housing. The sensor detects intake air temperature and transmits a signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM).The temperature sensing unit uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. Electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases in response to the temperature rise. The Intake Air Temperature signal is used as an input for various systems in the vehicle.



Hope this helps
FYT

http://www.autocodes.com/make/nissan

Faulty engine temperature sensor ?? On a cold start the temperature sensor should detect a cold engine and give a signal to the ecu to increase fuel ratio until the engine has warmed up. sounds like faulty sensor to me.

P0303 Code - Cylinder #3 Misfire
P0110 DTC - IAT Circuit Malfunction
P2195 O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Code
Potential causes of a P2195 code include:
p2195
p219521

• Oxygen (O2) or A/F ratio sensor or sensor heater malfunction
• Open or short in O2 sensor circuit (wiring, harness)
• Fuel pressure or fuel injector problem
• Faulty PCM
• Intake air or engine vacuum leaks
• Faulty fuel injector(s)
• Fuel pressure too high or too low
• PCV system leak/fault
• A/F sensor relay faulty
• MAF sensor malfunction
• ECT sensor malfunction
• Fuel pressure too low
• Fuel leak
• Air suction in air intake system
• A code P0303 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  

• Faulty spark plug or wire
• Faulty coil (pack)
• Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
• Faulty fuel injector
• Burned exhaust valve
• Faulty catalytic converter(s)
• Running out of fuel
• Poor compression
• Defective computer
• Potential causes of the P0110 DTC include:
  
• 
  po110
  • IAT sensor shifted out of airflow
  • Bad IAT sensor
  • Shorted to ground or open on signal circuit to IAT
  • Open in ground circuit to IAT
  • Poor connection at IAT (backed out terminals, broken connector locks, etc.)
  • Bad PCM

The code is for a slow response for bank 2 sensor one. This is the sensor before the catalytic converter on the side with cylinder 2.
It means the data going to the computer is not within range, not necessarily that the sensor is faulty.
Since you have replaced it twice, I would expect to find a cylinder miss, faulty injector, vac leak, or other problem with the engine.

Hello! Tell me where you placed the jumper wire?...Also is the Check Engine light on?...If it is (See photo below) push a paper clip into the 2 female pins of the OBD 1 connector...Turn on the key and count the Check Engine Light flashes...Example; 5 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes= Code 52...code list below...Guru...saailer

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system




I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Hello! See photo below of On Board Diagnostic 1 connector location...Push a paper clip into the two female pins...Turn on the key...The Check Engine Light will flash a two digit code...Example ; 5 long flashes folowed by 2 short flashes= code 52...See list below...When you have the code/codes send a comment...Guru...saailer...



Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system





I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

I think your reverse to park trick was a fluke,, I assume it turns over but since it is a 1995 you dont have a OBD 2 in the vehicle.
How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups:


The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other.

For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines)

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
44 ECCS Normal Operation.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

ECU Diagnostic Mode Procedures
Mode I - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode I to determine if the Oxygen Sensor is functioning properly.

Warm the engine to normal temperature.
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
Make sure the GREEN LED goes on and off more than five times during ten seconds at 2000 RPM.
If the number of flashes are not more than five, replace the oxygen sensor. If the LED does not flash, check the sensor's circuit.


Mode II - Mixture Ratio Control Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode II to determine if the air/fuel mixture is cycling correctly.

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise (or if you have a switch, turn it on).
After the LED flashes twice, turn the dial fully counter clockwise (or turn the switch off).
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
If the RED LED blinks simultaneously with the GREEN LED, the air/fuel mixture is cycling properly.
If the RED LED stays off, the mixture is more than 5% rich.
If the RED LED stays on, the mixture is more than 5% lean.
If the RED LED stays on or off above 2000 RPM, complete the diagnostics before beginning repairs.


Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode III to retrieve all stored trouble codes in memory.
Use the above posted procedures.


Mode IV - Switch Operation Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode IV to determine if the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Starter circuit and/or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are in proper working order.

Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 4 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure the RED LED is turned off.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when depressing the gas pedal. If not, check or replace the Throttle Position Sensor.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when turning the ignition key the START position. If not, check or replace the starter.
Drive the vehicle with the ECU unbolted and within view. Make sure the GREEN LED turns on when speed is 12 MPH or more. If not, check or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor.


Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly.

Start engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise.
After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine.
If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs. Perform real-time diagnosis inspection and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present.
if LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off.

If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

Hope this helps...
__________________

The temperature you see on the dash board gauge is not necessarily the actual temperature of the coolant. The engine has a 'coolant sensor' which sends information to the electronic control unit (ECU /PCM) and there is a separate 'sender' which governs the gauge reading you see on the dash board. The sender usually has just one wire connected to the top of it. The sender is basically a heat dependent resistor and the temperature gauge simply reads this resistance. Sometimes corrosion in the electrical connector can inhibit the correct readings, so first disconnect the sender and inspect/clean the pin with a little wire wool. Now check the coolant. First put the interior heater on maximum heat. Run the engine up to working temperature and then squeeze all rubber hoses to help shift any trapped air. Top up the coolant if the level drops when air pockets have been shifted. The following sequence should occur when the engine is warming up. 1) When cold the engine has higher then normal revs. This is due to the coolant sensor (not sender) telling the ECU that the engine is cold and that the injectors should add more fuel to compensate for the cold condition of the engine. 2) Within about a minute the idle revs begin to drop as the coolant sensor detects the engine warming up 3) After about 5 minutes the thermostat should open. You can detect yourself this by feeling the top rubber radiator hose getting hot. 4) If you have an electric cooling fan on the radiator this should switch on about now. If you have a fan driven by a viscous clutch this will engage a little later. 5) after about 2 more minutes the face of the radiator should be becoming hot and the bottom rubber radiator return hose should become warm, then hot.
If you have an electric fan and it fails to come on then check the electric relay and fuse for it. Viscous clutch fans should always show some resistance when turned over by hand when the engine is off, if it spins freely then the clutch coupling is faulty and it will need to be replaced. A sign of faulty fan related over-heating is a car than runs at normal temperature when cruising on the freeway but overheats when standing at the lights; fan engagement is to compensate for the lack of air flow across the radiator core when the vehicle is stationary.
I hope the above helps

That code means cylinder head over temp and has nothing to do with the coil. Check for proper coolant level first. May also be blocked coolant passages in the cylinder head but unlikely. Or a faulty temp sensor

16502/P0118/000280 From Ross-Tech Wiki Jump to: navigation, search Contents [hide]

• 1 16502/P0118/000280 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62): Signal too High
  • 1.1 Possible Symptoms
  • 1.2 Possible Causes
  • 1.3 Possible Solutions
  • 1.4 Special Notes

if (window.showTocToggle) { var tocShowText = "show"; var tocHideText = "hide"; showTocToggle(); } 16502/P0118/000280 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62): Signal too High Possible Symptoms

• Difficulties with starting a cold engine.
• Starting the engine when engine is warmish or warm, idle rpm immediately is 1200 - 3000 rpm.
• RPM at idle is irregular.
• With all engine temperatures idle rpm will often vary between 900 - 1000 rpm.
• With engine warm (90 °C) the engine temperature suddenly drops (70 °C) and slowly comes back to 90 °C.
• Bad acceleration during warm-up.
• Diesel Engines: Glow plug indicator may be on for a longer than normal time or at ambient temperatures where it shouldn't come on at all.

Possible Causes

• The electrical signal coming from G62 is too low
• Wiring and/or connections faulty (short circuit?)
• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check wiring and connections
• Check / Replace Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)

Special Notes

• In many cars between MY 1995-2002 the G2/G62 had a bad reputation for failing often. The original G2/G62 sensor is black and the improved replacements are green.