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It appears you got two belts on this, You would remove power steering belt first. Sometimes, the power steering body has bolts you can loosen, to get slack in the belt, with the bolts loose, you rotate the body, to get slack in the belt. With the belt on the right, you would rotate the tensioner to get slack in the belt, to remove and install.
I had to go to paint to draw the belt diagram, so it isn't exact, but, should be close enough.
I have no repair info on this vehicle.
A grinding or rumbling noise can also be symptoms of a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint in a driveshaft. A worn wheel bearing can also cause a 'whistling' sound (as can a worn CV joint).
A grinding noise with brakes is either worn pads causing metal to metal contact on the brake disk/rotor, or the brake backing plate catching on a spinning rotor ... or a loose/missing anti squeal brake shim (they stop the pads from rattling and vibrating).
However, as you say a mechanic has looked at the brakes and can't find anything wrong .. I think I would begin to suspect a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint on the driveshaft (front wheel drive cars).
Bad news Aaron. Your symptoms sound exactly like a bad CV joint. And shame on the dealer for not thinking of that. If the CV is indeed bad, consider having the car towed to the dealership, as this can be dangerous condition.
turbo whistle is common as it comes from the tips of the compressor wheel passing through the sound barrier and the turbulence occurs. IN the older trucks you would the turbo whistle as the engine reached full RPM just before a gear change. In smaller engine it is not do noticeable as there is an excess of air pressure that keeps the compressor wheel at a lower rpm and the pressure is dumped out. Turbo compressors reach revolutions in excess of 120.000 rpm under full load If it has just started to make the noise then check the intercooler system for leaks--loose clamps--- splits - Have the turbo compressor checked for damaged fins from the ingress of fine dirt from a bad air filter---check the air filter is not blocked as the turbo speed may result from running in a partial vacuum ( no load on the compressor wheel)
Hi Adstew,
the front diff has a sensor telling the control unit it when it is engaged (or not). It probably is, and it won't disengage. or the sensor is stuck. The selector lever tells the control unit you want 2WD but the sensor thinks the front axle is engaged. So it flashes.
When shifting to 2WD, normally the front axle will come free after a load change or a bit of turning the steering from side to side, but it sometimes happens that it gets stuck. You can find out:
lift the car free off ground, then select drive forward in 2WD. If the front wheels do not turn, then the sensor may be faulty or stuck. if the front wheels turn in 2WD mode, the diff is stuck and the sensor tells you so. Same or similar problem can happen with the center diff, by the way, on pajero/montero, etc.
regards
Winfried, the perfessa
"...makes a rumbling sound." Since you changed the head gasket, I suspect that you did not align the balance shafts correctly. There is a specific and mandatory sequence to setting up the 4G64 timing belts so the lower (oil pump) and upper balance shafts are correctly synced.
Get it wrong and the engine vibrates, often around 2500 rpm and higher.
You will have to set the engine to Top Dead Center, pull the cam covers off again, disconnect the tensioners, remove the belts, and realign the balance shafts correctly.
this may be due to a tire cord separating inside the tire, this will cause the exact symptom's u have, consult a tire shop for a most likely free inspection.
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