Changed power steering pump thinking it was that,no joy still the same,could it be steering rack,ball joints,I don't know is there a common fault with these cars or is it normal
SOURCE: 1987 Chevy G20 van replace power steering pump
Does your van have the serpentine belt? If so maybe I can help, I replaced the Power steering pump on my 90 G20 a couple of weeks ago. The trick is that you need to pull the pump pulley which is pressed on to access the mounting bolts which attach the pump to the engine. Harbor Freight tools sells a great tool designed for this job for $20.00. Once you have the correct tools, remove the serpentine drive belt. You may also need to remove the fan shroud. the pump shaft looks like it has an allen socket in the center, but this is for use in the manufacturing process, and will not come out. Place the puller tool on the pulley following tthe instruction that come with the tool, and remove the pulley. loosen, but do not remove the nut on the high pressure hose connection. use a pair of **** pliers to cut and remove the crimp clamp on the low pressure hose. If your pump has the remote reservour loosen the clamp on the reservour hose also. Remove the three mounting bolts, place a large pan under the pump to catch drips, and remove the prevously loosened hoses. there will be fluid leaking all over and the pump should come free, There are two types of replacement pump sold. With and without reservour. This reservour is a metal cover that fits over the back of the pump, and should not be confused with the reomte revervour found on some newer models which is next to the battery. This reservour is held in place be two throught the pump bolts which are removed at the back of the pump. If your new pump has a reservour you will probably still need to remove these bolts and put them in the replacement pump as most are shiped without these bolts. If you replacement pump comes without a reservour pull the bolts, the reservour should pull off of the old pump and slide onto the new one. check the o rings and replace the through the pump bolts. Installation is the reverse of removal execpt that 1/2" hose clamps replace the crimp clamps on the low pressure hose, and the puller tool is set up differently to replace the pulley. Finally if you don't flush contaminants out of the system your repair will last maybe a week. www.cardone.com has a great article about power steering flushing, read it before you start Good luck.
SOURCE: repalce ball joints 01' Chevy Blazer 4WD
you should just be able to loosen the half shaft and be ok that way
SOURCE: replace lower ball joints on a 2000 chevy blazer 4
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Testimonial: "Thank you for your directions this will help very much."
SOURCE: steering loose on 1994 chevy 4x4
check the idler arm and pitman arms
a quik and dirty way to check for play in the front end
is to have an assistant rock the steering wheel back and forth while feel an all the joints in the steering gear for play.
there will likely be more than one loose joint.
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