2005 dodge grand caravan sxt hard to start and has a skip replaced plugs and wires still same replacing coil pack soon as it gets here any other ideas will be greatly appreciated junt in case

SOURCE: No Start, No Spark, for Grand Caravan 3.8L

we get remans bad out of the box......... good luck

SOURCE: Dodge 2005 Grand Caravan water Pump replacement

JUST COMPLETED THIS JOB TODAY. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN . IT TOOK APPROX 2 1/2 HRS. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE POST ON THE BATTERY. JACK UP PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AND SUPPORT ON JACK STANDS. REMOVE PASS. FROUNT TIRE. DRAIN RADIATOR INTO CONTAINER FOR PROPER DISPOSAL OR REUSE. USING FLOOR JACK PROVIDE SLIGHT TENSION ON OIL PAN WITH A SHORT 2 X 4 WOOD PIECE TO PROTECT OIL PAN. LOOSEN 3 ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS ON PASS. SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ALLOW APPROX 1" BETWEEN SHOULDER OF BOLTS AND MOUNT. LOWER ENGINE UNTILL BOLTS ARE SET ONTO MOUNT. REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD INSIDE WHEEL WELL OF REMOVED TIRE. LOCATE WATER PUMP AND LOOSEN 3 PULLEY MOUNTING BOLTS (THIS IS WHILE BELT IS ON PULLEY) REMOVE SURPENTINE BELT AND CONTINUE TO FULLY REMOVE THE PUMP PULLEY. IT WONT COME OUT AS THE PUMP & PULLEY HAVE TO COME OUT TOGEATHER. REMOVE 5 WATER PUMP BOLTS AND CAREFULLY WORK WATER PUMP OUT BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND VEHICLE FRAME. CLEAN ALL MATING/GASKET SURFACES AND BOLTS. USING A SMALL AMOUNT OF TACKY SEALENT TO INSURE THE NEW WATER PUMP SEAL STAYS IN PLACE, THE INSTALL IS PRITTY MUCH THE REVERSAL OF REMOVAL.

GOOD LUCK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS TO MFR SPECS AND BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLANT AS REQUIRED.

SOURCE: Does a 2005 Dodge caravan SXT have

How to change a serpentine belt on a 2005 dodge caravan?

SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan misfiring and sluggish

2005 CARAVAN 3.3L.
Van misfires, code says coil three . change out with new a cam sensor , injector, wires , plugs and of coarse coil. What is left and why would the pcm just have a problem with # 3.
ps i checked the compression and all six cylinders have 165. lbs.

SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L

Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.