2006 300C 5.7 hemi stalls at idle or when stopping at light. Starts up but takes a few seconds for trans to kick in. Keeping rpm over 800 rpm car does not stall

replace the idle control sensor to get an idle speed above 800
run the fault codes as there may be more wrong that need fixing

sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.

If it's fuel-injected, you may need to have the injectors cleaned, and also, any air filters should be changed at the same time along with gas filter/s. If it's carbureted, the same as above, but have someone clean the carburetor completely. Make sure all air hoses are attached correctly, securely and NOT broken. If broken, replace them.

first check the throttle plate for carbon build up the look for the knock sensor harness rubbing onto the fan shroud

Possible Idle air control, simple to change on the throttle body

Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

Throttle body, IAC or EGR valve.

Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

this is cause because the ISC is busted or can not open enough to keep idle at 800 rpm.

ISC , idle speed controller

but....
the car has a TPS switch on the throttle body.
if it fails to close at idle the ecu will never attempt to set idle.

or
car could be flooding. (too much gas)

you did not say if motor is 8valve or 16v and they are quite different EFI systems.

your problem is in your throttle sensor that controls the idle it is located right behind your intake and it has two screws that mounts it i am almost positive that this is where your problem is comig from