Looking for ignition wiring and distributor circuit for a Opel Monza 1996 model 1600

well that firing order is wrong!
an Opel Kadett 200ie, 1996
no country told and 15 engines used world wide this car.
last one in UK is 1995
so I guess it is not UK?
sold under 11 names world wide.
IN UK it is really a Vauxhall Astra Mk II. badged as Opel. now that is confusing.
not diesel, but petrol AND ALL ARE INLINE 4 BANGER'S.
every car made ,every manual for for them in print tells you 2 answers ( distributors)
1: lost all distrib setting
2: or not lost SETTINGS, Crank not turned.

so read that book it tells you to do this.

SPIN ENGINE TO SEE DISTRIB ROTOR ROTATION CCW OR CW/? (HOLD THAT THOUGHT)
by hand
set crank pulley TO TDC ,-0 DEGREE'S AND BOTH VALVES CLOSED #1 CYLINDER. (CALLED FIRING)#1
CAP OFF. MARK ROTOR #1 TO DISTRIB BODY
THEN CAP ON AND MARK #1 ON CAP.
PUT #1 WIRE TO #1 CAP
AND 1,3,4,2, IN CW OR CCW DIRECTION SEEn ABOVE. at FIRST STEP.

DONE car runs.
if distributor was pulled there are 15 engine answers.

next time on all cars made on earth with HV spark wires
do them 1 at a time. and win.
distribs or any car with HV spark wires seen (sets)

Most likely in a plastic box under the hood, on top of the fenderwell, close to the battery....Fuse ID will be printed on the box lid.............

The ecu doesn't control the power of the spark, only where it goes at a particular time. The coil/s, plugs, wires, cap and rotor do though.

Wow thats a old vehicle ,remember working on a 3 litre version many years ago but a workshop manual ??

You will need to provide a model year to get the answer you are looking for.

The wiring runs through the ECU ,its not as simple as a good old viva or cortina.So whats the problem here and you do know that this vehicle has a factory immobilisor with a chipped key

Sadly this is a USA site... and Opel data seems to be pretty scarce on your car...

Simply (generally)... You are looking to see steady battery on your coil.. as the distributer turns it SHOULD BE interrupting ground...

and generating a PRETTY POWERFUL spark...

Use a volt meter and measure for battery = good.

... no battery... back up to the BALAST RESISTOR (if equipped)... measure for battery...
Only now do you need to know the circuit back to your starter switch ("B" and "S" leads).

ELSE...
If you have a clever (preferably smaller/tool (we'll call SPARKY)) assistant... you can convince to hold the spark lead REALLY REALLY close to the spark plug... If SPARKY sees (or feels) a spark move on to the FUEL... FILTER & PUMP.

Sparky would be smarter to pull out the center wire of the distributor cap... that way less likely your assistant will get ENERGIZED...

No spark = possibly bad distributor or coil

Now disconnect the ground side and manually apply rapid ground... test for spark = good coil

Still no spark = bad coil,

There is a tool for that (I'll post it below)...

Now no spark = clean/replace points (& capacitor) or
replace inductor!!

dear friend:
flywheel: 35nm - 30deg -15deg
cyl head:55nm - 30deg cold
big ends:25nm - 15deg
main b :50nm - 45deg -15deg