Removal of timing chain 2005 chevy cavalier 2.2

SOURCE: need to replace timing chain

I'm doing this myself, and there are some annoyances. Yes, a service manual is good, however, I consulted 2 manuals and got two different answers. Here is the real deal for the 1996 2.2 vin 4 cavalier.

Remove the right tire and platic sheilds. Remove the tensioner pully, (2 bolts).

Remove the harmonic balencer on the crank shaft, 3 bolts first then the center.

Use a pull hammer with correct thread to pull off the "crankshaft thing" on the end of the crank shaft. Be sure to pull it off evenly. I had to find a bolt with the same threads, cut that off, and tap a fitting for my **** hammer. It's on there good.

Remove 7 (8mm) bolts from around the chain cover. Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts from under the cover. Those two studs also have to come out with a small inner tourqe socket. These are very very easy to strip, be careful. The cover is now free.

It is sealed on tight. There are a couple good places to get a bite on the rear facing edge. You will also have to work from the top and bottom to get it free. It pulls strait out, it is positioned by pins. Be patient, that cover will break.

There is silicon that seals the bottom of the cover. Clean that all off with a scraper and wire brush. Pull off and clean where the gasket seats all around the cover. Clean the cover. Replace the gasket and the outer oil seal that goes around the crank shaft. The only way to get that seal out is to break it. Press the new one in with a vice, do it evenly and slowly.

I've found a good method to get the cam shaft sproket off.... There are 3 slots and a hole. Rotate the cam sproket clockwise till you get the hole to about 9o'clock. Put drill bit or short piece of hard metal (something that won't bend) in that hole and apply some pressure while you rotate another 10 degrees or so. The bit will drop into a hole. Now rotate counter-clockwise and the bit will bind the sproket so you can remove the bolt. Nice huh? I get it unbound by putting a screwdriver between teeth and prying against the crank shaft. Use your imagination.

The timing **** is retarded. And I still havn't found a deffinate answer for everything. The crank shaft makes two rotations for every one that the cam makes. The first crank shaft rotation is the compression stroke, the second is the power stroke. I don't know how to tell the difference.

To get the sprokets aligned, re-install the cam sproket, don't worry about getting it tight. Rotate it clockwise until the hole in the sproket lines up with the ear on the chain tensioner. Now, bind the gear right in that spot and remove it. Now, take that "crankshaft thingy" and push it on by hand as far as you can. Notice the key, and dot on one of teeth. Put the bolts partially in the thingy and rotate it by using a bar or screwdriver between the bolts. Move that sproket until the dot on the tooth lines up with the ear on the chain adjustor. The key will point directly up. Good job. Tap that thingy off the shaft now.

Compress the chain adjustor and put a pin through it. With the cam sproket removed, put the chain on it. Work the chain onto the crankshaft sproket. Slide the cam sproket onto the camshaft. Easier said than done, but it is possible. If you are having a hell of time, use a mirror and check that you are lining it up properly with the pin/key in the crankshaft. I found that leaving a little slack at the top, as opposed to the bottom helps. FYI, when i say little, i mean it. There is very very little slack, but the chain does buckle slightly.

Remember me saying that I have no idea how to tell between power and compression stroke. Now you will hate me. To get mine right, I had to tighten the cam sproket then replace my spark plugs and attempt to start to start the car. I guessed mine right the first time and it ran fine. However, if it ran rough or not at all. I would have had to remove the cam sproket again, remove the chain and rotate the crankshaft sproket one full turn.

When you put this all back together, use plenty of slicon on the bottom of the chain cover. Re-assembly is a snap, or at least is was for me.

Harvey N Tawatao

• 3854 Answers
• Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: how to replace a timing chain 2000 chevy cavalier

I am familiar with that vehicle but generally with timing chain replacement, the engine needs full access for pulley and cover removal and in some cases the cylinder head requires removal.
Generally timing chains last so that they only need replacement at engine overhaul and it is not an economic proposition to have to replace a chain unless some relative degree of engine work is also required at that time. 

Engine timing chains generally have a tensioner on them which maintains tension, but some chains can wear significantly and cause timing cover to be "ground away" because of "slop".

If the engine is making the noisy rattle of the timing chain against the cover etc, I would schedule a top overhaul (head, machine, test and valve grind) with the chain replacement dependent on mileage with the degree of action.

Some simple simplex timing chains (type of chain similar to motor bike chain) may be replaced without dismantling the engines but I would expect your chain would be a "duplex" dual sprocket type, these are most common. 
These chains are not generally expensive but replacing them can involve a fair amount of work. 

Good Luck and hope this helps, Others will have different ideas.

SOURCE: timing chain noise 2005 cavalier 2.2 ecotec

Just the guide is probably making the noise. So either a new guide or a new chain. I would start with guide first, unless chain looks loose or cruddy

SOURCE: set timing chain on 1996 chevy cavalier 2.2L there

Hope this helps you.

Reynaldo Andico

• 2431 Answers
• Posted on Aug 28, 2011

SOURCE: need a timing chain diagram

2.2 DOHC cavalier