My 97 f250 clutch pedal assembly is flexing when i depress the clutch therefore will not engage enough to shift gears i think it is broken where it is bolted to the dash underneath is there a fix

that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse

Do you mean you can't get the clutch to DISengage? You need the clutch to disengage - 'unlock' the transmission input shaft from the flywheel - in order to change gears.
If you put the transmission in 1st gear and start the engine and the truck starts moving with the pedal depressed, the clutch IS engaged. I think you mean that you can't get it to disengage so you can stop without killing the engine, and can change gears without a lot of grinding.
If this is the case, check to see that the clutch cable or linkage (if you have mechanical linkage) is properly adjusted, or that you hydraulic lines and slave cylinder are bled if you have a hydraulically controlled clutch.

TRY THIS I BET IT'S YOUR PROBLEM

Neutral Safety Switch

• Put the selector in the park position.
• Loosen the screws on the neutral safety switch.
• Remove the switch.
• Reverse the procedures to complete the installation.

Clutch Start Switch
CAUTION
Before replacing the clutch switch or any component connected to the vehicle's control computer, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

• After replacing the switch, slowly work the clutch pedal and note any unusual noises or interferences with pedal movement.
• If the switch is adjustable, make sure the clutch pedal height and push rod (free) play are correct.
• Then check the release point of the clutch.
• Begin by engaging the parking brake and installing wheel chocks.
• Start the engine and allow it to idle.
• Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever into reverse until the gears contact.
• Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (this is the release point) up to the full stroke end position.
• If the distance is not within specifications, check the pedal height, push rod play, and pedal free play.
• If the distance is correct, check the clearance between the switch and the pedal assembly when the clutch is fully depressed.

Clutch switch to pedal assembly clearance. Courtesy of Toyota Motor Company.

• Loosen the switch and adjust its position to provide for the specified clearance.

The clutch master has blown out

there could be one of a few issues here.
1 the thrust bearing may have gone which sites on the clutch plate prongs and the actuator arm.
if you have somebody who can depress the pedal while you go under and have a look at whats going on.
2 as this is a hydrolic assisted clutch there may be air got into the system which may show resistance but there is not enough pressure to push the clutch plates so the stay engaged.
when was the clutch fluid last replaced? as same as break fluid is will absorb moisture over time and reduce is effectiveness.
3. the clutch plates may have overheated last time round and welded together so they will not come apart and will have to be replaced.
do you drive with your foot covering the clutch pedal? this style of driving can cause the clutch to overheat as their is never full pressure during driving always leave your feet away from the clutch pedal once you have changed gear.

You need to take it back out - you have assembled it wrong.

That is what happens when you try to shift gear with out depressing the clutch pedal while changing gears.

Adjusted Clutch cable assembly under passenger side of vehicle. Had assistance from friend depressing clutch pedal and engaging shift lever. Problem went away

Your link broke off. What might have happened is the car got stuck in 1st, and when you shifted to second, the link broke. Not too clued up on your car, but you probably need to drop the gearbox. On some cars you can take out the shifter without having to drop the box and still see if the link is broken. Good luck

internal slave cylinders are known to leak , unfortunate it is behind clutch assembly , i would change both , clutch master and slave cylinder