2005 Pontiac grand am. Car cranks up and drive but no door lock..no dash lights also cause ac to stop working and no hazard lights or signal lights
Have you hooked up a scan tool ,a professional scan tool that can read codes in all the computers on the vehicle ? Not a code reader that just checks OBD2 codes . Check BCM - body control module, instrument cluster , etc...
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Have you checked the fuses?
No dash lights? no warning lights? Then ignition is not being turned to ON. Check all your fuses. Recheck your replacement work. Battery cables clean and tight? Headlights work? If lights are bright, battery is good and cables are good, so key to ON should light up warning lights on dash. If not something up still with your ignition switch.
New switch it is installed properly I don't get it
Still no go? Let me know if you fixed it and what it was; otherwise, buy a cheap test light -about $5-and you can trace some of where battery power is going and where it might be lost. First, clip tester lead to ground, use probe of tester, touch battery positive. tester should light up (so your ground is good!) Now go to fuse/relay block under the hood- this block of fuses is first to get battery power, even before the ignition switch. A lot of these fuses are "hot at all time" so 12 volt power is ready to them always, as long as battery is hooked up. Okay, on top end of all fuses, both maxi fuses and the regular 10 and 15 amp fuses-ALL fuses, have 2 little openings-one at each end of fuse-open to the metal strip inside. these are really test ports for checking fuses. Use tester probe to touch into one of the maxi fuses-tester should light. If it doesn't light, the connection between the battery and this fuse block is bad. Look for the pig tail off the battery positive cable that goes to this block, alternatively if no pig tail on cable, then at the end of the pos. cable on the starter motor, there will be eyelet connectors of smaller wires with big cable, and this is where the fuse/relay block gets power from battery. Okay, back to fuses. If you got power to fuse block, you see tester light up on those maxi fuses, while you are at it, touch probe to other end of those fuses***a GOOD FUSE will light the tester on both ends of the fuse. A bad fuse will only light one end of a fuse-because the metal strip inside has blown. You can test any fuse this way, without even removing the fuse to eyeball it, so remember that.***now, back to your problem, when ignition switch is turned to on, the rest of all the fuses in your car that were NOT "hot at all time" will now have power to them. In other words, some fuses are powered at all times, but when key is in ON, all fuses , all circuits on the car are live and have power to them. So on your fuse block, turn the key to ON, then see that all your fuses have power to them. If not, still a problem with your Ignition switch. Here's how it works: One or two of those hot at all time maxi fuses are the power feed for the ignition switch, so power goes from battery to maxi fuse to ignition switch. And when key is on power goes from ign. switch back to that fuse block to power other fuses and circuits that are designated "hot in run, accessory, or start". Post back and let me know how you are doing.
One other possibility, your car may be equipped with fusible links. these are like heavy duty fuses, that protect major or high-powered circuits, and are in the smaller gauge wires connected directly to the battery or to the end of the positive cable. When a fusible link blows(it is a short length of wire) the insulation on it will be bulgy and rough feeling, kind of bumpy. The link can be cut out and a replacement of same rating is simply spliced in. Use solder in your splices for good measure.
Could a dash cluster cause problems with car starting up
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