97fordescort beeps when there is no key. it displays a battery draw somewhere. when i pull the btn fuse it's circuit amperage reduces but the power draw still exists.the chime ranges from slow to fast

If the alternator is charging the battery it will not be the fuse. The alternator would simply stop working if the fuse has blown.
If the battery isn't holding charge you might have a power drain somewhere in the vehicle. Something in the electrics may not be turning off correctly and draining the battery. Do you have any warning lights on the dash? Have you access to an OBD2 scanner to check for any Trouble Codes?
If it is a power drain the simplest fix is to get a good Auto Electrician to check the vehicle. Finding a power drain or an electrical short can be a real pain in the tail bone job because there is so much electronics on a car. Paying an expert to do it is a lot quicker and easier as they have the right tools to do it.

thisis going to be unuseaual but you could have a mechanic wire a switch on isolated relay into the fuses circuit to connect only with switch is on a 5 dollarrelay and a 5 dollar wire pack and 5 ollars in terminals pluse mechanic fees to wire in good luck

If the battery is new then something is drawing power. It could small short somewhere, turned on light, car alarm etc. Connect amperage meter. There should be almost no draw with car off. Very small draw is for car alarm, radio memory etc. Now start removing fuses to see when draw goes away. Once find inspect that circuit.

k is it a boat truck van car tractor trailer lawnmower ?great describtion of the issue but ??

Your going to need a volt/ohm meter for testing this prob. You need to put the meter on amperage mode and turn off all devices in car and close all doors and make sure key is off! Disconnect the negative battery cable and use the meter to hook from the battery negative cable to the other end of the cable, basically the meter is completing the circuit. Once you turn the meter on the vehicle will have to power down cause your meter connection will have woke up several modules, wait bout 5 min with the meter on, if the meter is 10 ohm scale a good reading should be around 0.025 to 0.001, if it's anything higher then pull fuses 1 by 1 until the draw falls into proper range, that will help you narrow down what circuit the draw is related to. Quick check, make sure the trunk light and or glove box lights are actually turning off, most common prob for current draw..

If you have some electrical know how you can try to trace the draw yourself. You will need a multimeter capable of measuring amps.

First dis-connect the negative terminal, and make sure your dome light and everything else is turned off.

Next connect the multimeter in between the terminal and battery connection basically completing the circuit, and make sure the meter is set to amperage.

You should get a reading somewhere around 14-25 milliamps depending on how old or new the vehicle is. If you have a reading of say 200 milliamps then you have a draw somewhere.

Now once you get a clear level reading start by removing individual fuses and seeing if the reading goes down. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading down to an acceptable level you found the circuit that has the problem.

At this point you would have to trace individual parts of the circuit to find the specific draw which requires a fair bit of know how, and should be done by someone with this knowledge.

Hi
Welcome
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:

1. Electrical items left on.
2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
4. An internally shorted generator.
5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.

You have a drain on the battery somewhere. It could be as simple as your glove box light staying on when the door is closed.

The easiest way to find the problem is to set a meter in line to monitor amperage draw, then pull individual fuses until you find the circuit responsible for the power draw. After you identify the circuit, you can inspect it closer to see why it is pulling power.

If you don't believe you can chase down the power draw, any shop would be able to hunt down the problem for you, but sometimes electrical issues can be time-consuming to identify the problem.

the fuse box inside the cabin on the passenger side near the floor on the left. In there are many keyed circuits, weather the is one that can handle that amperage I dont know. I would suggest for safety sake use a relay that can handle that current draw and wire the coil of the relay to any keyed circuit. You can then wire the contractor of the relay directly to the battery and draw as much current as you want. Remember to use fuses on both the coil side and the contractor side of the relay and if you are running a wire to the battery be sure to put a fuse there AT THE BATTERY as well.