Replaced 2 new front Rotors, Calipers, brake pads, & cleaned left and right Wheel speed sensors and both left and right shaft toothed cog wheels. still no luck. The Brake piston only releases when it is bled but returns to the same stuck position again when brake is applied a few times, and then it must be bled to release the piston pressure again.
Check and test for damaged or collapsed flex brake hose [ usually collapse internally not allowing fluid to return ]
Testimonial: "Thanks John, don't know why I didn't think of that.... guess its always the simplest things we tend to pass up. You are the second person with the same answer, However; I feel if that is not the problem then I may have to deal with either the Pump Module or an ABS Sensor. Thanks so much for your input."
update: I replaced the Brake Hose today and still have the same problem... seems like it might be either the Modulator, or perhaps just ONE modulator fluid line. Is it possible to have just ONE bad modulator fluid line?/ or is it definitely the Modulator itself?
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If the caliper is ok it sounds like the flexiable hose is restrcted by the metal crimps on the hose corroded and crushing the reinforced rubber hose restricting the fluid returning back in to the system. change the hose
Testimonial: "Thanks Paul, Why didn't I think of that? I'm going to check it out but still fear that maybe the pump module or one of the ABS Sensors is bad. Great input Thanks Much."
Update: Today I replaced the Brake Hose and I still have the same problem. Brake piston will still not retract. So I guess my next two options are: One of the Modulator Brake Fluid Linens or the Modulator itself.
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SOURCE: front disc brakes
Replace the rubber brake hose going to caliper, do both sides. Your problem will be solved
SOURCE: Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced
You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.
SOURCE: Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels.
Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.
SOURCE: stuck calipers
Brake lines are not releasing fluid back to master cylinder. Open bleeder and see if wheel will turn. If it does replace brake line to caliper
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