when did you see car work perfectly before, never or 10 years ago or?
check fuses, not change them. there are 3 ways to test all fuse, looks, ohms and volts.
3 ways.
and 2 to 3 fuses boxes, cab and engine bay and some cars have trunk fuses, the service manual covers all this.
worst is not telling all thing failing and all things not failing. (in brief the good)
gee does car drive ok ????????
held lamps work? and all 12 parking lamps
brake lamps all dead cause park shifter lockout failure.
heater blower dead on high
radio works, electrics on cars is complex 25 fuse and 100 loads. or more. off them in huge tree structure
lets do stop lamps dead. (#1 cause of park lockout is this
battery not bad and is fully charged to 12.6vdc rested
head lamps work
engine starts and runs ,drives. is first fact not told.
(the serial path of power)
STOP fuse good 15amp fuse in the fuse box
STOP switch good to pedal
switch White wire hot all the time, even key off
switch wire out g-w is hot 12vdc stepping on the brake
if not the switch is bad.
next this g-w wire goes to park lockout page
the the SHIFT LOCKOUT ECU.(oxymoron named)
they mean shift lock controller, in truth.
SL ECU has 10 pins.
1 is , stop wire. above (hot when stopping)
and this SL ECU must energize the lockout
solenoid
or you can not shift the shifter out of park
the CIG FUSE not blown or ACC pin goes dead on
SL ECU.
ECU-IG fuse not blow or no power to SL_ECU
the 3 pin shift lock control switch not bad. at shifter.
key present switch not bad
engine runs , means other fuses to SL-ECU are good.
that is, windows bad is a whole other ball game and lots of tests. to do there. using a voltmeter is best.
this is SL controller below all inputs must be good.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
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