Year is 2007
You may need to buy original dealer part to make it work correctly. It's that or a junkyard one. Something about the aftermarket ones don't work the same. Test the alternator again or try oem quality one
Testimonial: "Its the genuine original Honda alternator. It's working fine. It has been tested at a specialist off the car."
Its the genuine original honda alternator. It's working fine.
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Baaaad alternator!!!
Testimonial: "No its very good."
Sorry but it's not a bad alternator. It's been tested off the car at a refurbishment specialist and working fine. Sometimes the car charges and works and then randomly shows airbag light followed by the rest and heavy steering and back to square 1
It should always charge,not sometimes... Get an OEM alternator...those refab shops you should be careful
It has an Original genuine one on, its nothing to do with the alternator. The fault is something else. Both battery and alternator are good although reading states other. I spent 2 hours removing and refitting the alternator to be tested. Thanks
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SOURCE: My Honda Element 2008 has a VSA Warning light and
It may be as simple as your oil condition or oil level. If you have poor oil in your engine the VTEC system will not operate properly and when RPMs reach 2800 or so it will buck. If everything checks okay with the oil have the code checked for your check engine light/VSA light.
SOURCE: my 2006 honda odyssey won't start...2 days ago I
it sounds like that, if after installing the battery, it ran and started good, then this tells me it run until it drained the battery, so this tells me theres a charging problem, make sure the belt is on and then take a good look at the alternator and battery connections,then check the alternator output to see if its charging, it should put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running, if it doesnt then replace battery,you can also check for power at the alternator and other tests but i dont want to confuse you, a good thing to do is when removed just to double check have the parts store test it for you, it sounds like a bad alternator, hope this is helpful, good luck.
SOURCE: 2005 honda accord diagnostic codes
you need to connect the car to a fault code reader this will tell you if an abs sensor is faulty and which wheel it is or if it is the abs unit
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Did you resolve this problem? I have exact same, you feel know one is listening. My alternator gas been tested off the car and is fine, the battery is brand new with a 4 year warranty, a multimeter test if alternator is just under what it should be and spikes randomly. I'm ready for driving it off a cliff :(
Mine is a 2007 cdti ex
It should be steady at 14 bolts when running. If not it may be bad alternator. Just cause it's new does not mean it will work like the one you can buy from the dealer. I don't know where you bought it. But if it does not work it does not work.
IT DOES WORK IT DOES WORK. It HAS NOT BEEN BOUGHT, IT IS THE GENUINE HONDA DENSO ALTERNATOR AND HAS BEEN TAKEN OFF AND TESTED AT A ALTERNATOR SPECIALIST.
Is the belt slipping if it's not tight they may be the problem. But you would hear a squealing belt noise. So unless you have a plug connector that is not making good contact. I have seen bent connectors or even where the clip has slide back into the connector and not make the contact. So acts like a short or broken wire. Not sure what else it could be. The alternator has a built in voltage regulator so unless something in the car has caused a major ground problem it should work.
Hi Adam, Ive been none stop on this car and ready to buy a can of petrol to ignite it.
Here's where I'm at. I've plugged it in almost daily. After wiping the faults the ones that always come back are 17-2 Permanent DTC Control unit power supply Voltage and 18-1 Permanent DTC Motor power supply Voltage. Alternator not charging. After looking I'm finding in forums faulty EPS System and to change it. I noticed the airbag light fault flicks and beeps on and off randomly like a loose wire but I cant find any loose plugs. I changed the front right abs sensor as it kept coming up and the car has had suspension damage on that side and it had the bracket broken that held it to the body so had been caused some trauma.
the only plug I know has damage is the power steering one with the 3 on the drivers side from the damage. It is just not clicked and is in and has been working as that resolved my heavy steering problem in the start and I have been using the car since for a few months until now. I am having a new rack fitted today so there will be no broken plug issue there then. The belt is new from what I remember, Its tight and looks in good condition.
Todays fault codes are 61-1 Battery. 92-1 CAN System failure, 18-1 Motor Power supply voltage. 17-2 control unit power.
Hi Adam, Ive been none stop on this car and ready to buy a can of petrol to ignite it.
Here's where I'm at. I've plugged it in almost daily. After wiping the faults the ones that always come back are 17-2 Permanent DTC Control unit power supply Voltage and 18-1 Permanent DTC Motor power supply Voltage. Alternator not charging. After looking I'm finding in forums faulty EPS System and to change it. I noticed the airbag light fault flicks and beeps on and off randomly like a loose wire but I cant find any loose plugs. I changed the front right abs sensor as it kept coming up and the car has had suspension damage on that side and it had the bracket broken that held it to the body so had been caused some trauma.
the only plug I know has damage is the power steering one with the 3 on the drivers side from the damage. It is just not clicked and is in and has been working as that resolved my heavy steering problem in the start and I have been using the car since for a few months until now. I am having a new rack fitted today so there will be no broken plug issue there then. The belt is new from what I remember, Its tight and looks in good condition.
Todays fault codes are 61-1 Battery. 92-1 CAN System failure, 18-1 Motor Power supply voltage. 17-2 control unit power.
Interesting you said there was damage to the car. You May be dealing with multi problems from the crash. How much damage was there to the wiring. You may have a damage harness or some bad ground connections. To find any bad wires in the car may be impossible. When you bought the car did you know about the damage or was it since you bought it. My guess is there are some bad wires or even some broken parts that may be the issues. So there is nothing I can suggest to help. It would be hard enough to know what's going unless the car was okay to begin with. Now your taking about a crash. If the car was in a flood I would suggest scrap or all new wiring and electrical components ya that bad for flooding.
the damage was minor, the steering rack had a broken plug and tracking, i have been using the car fine for months then this happened one day out the blue. I changed the rack last week but the fault ( 12-1 motor power supply voltage open in IG1 signal harness) keeps coming back, it has 4 options. I dont know where this harness is or what it is location wise. Thanks
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