They not always lock on it's happened after 10 minutes of driving and stopped by itself without even pushing the brake pedal i have checked the clipper'sand they worked OK pls help?
SOURCE: front brakes stick on
either your calipers are sticking and need replacing. OR the hoses have failed internally. and need replacing.. very rare but possible the master cylinder is not allowing the fluid to return usually caused bu a booster failing and causing some down travel in the master cylinder. I'd start by raising the front end up. appling hard brake pressure. turn the tire.. then loosen the brake bleeder to check for pressure. if the bleeder sprays fluid and the brakes release forget the calipers. if they are still tight then replace the calipers. pump them up again if they released.. and break the line free at the master cylinder. if they don't release then replace the hoses..
SOURCE: Buick Grand National vacuum brake conversion
^ Turbo Cars have Lots of Vaccum, Where did you ever get this idea from. I have personally converted 10+ Turbo Buicks to Vac brakes.
Make sure the check valve is okay at the booster. but it does sound like you have a bad booster.
Also, did you change the brake pedal to a Vac brake pedal?
They are not interchangeable.
Also, you should not have drilled the plenum, you can get a vaccum block to replace the plastic one on the top of the plenum with a vac brake port.
SOURCE: 2004 Chevrolet Aveo Brake lights not working
A couple of days ago my brake lights on my 2004 Chevy Aveo wouldn't work, so I attempted to remove the lamp covers to check the bulbs. Also, before this my shifter would get stuck in park and could only be released by pressing the unlock gadget next to the shifter. Back to the brakes...Well, you open the trunk and remove the two screws just like the manual said, but it was very hard to pull off. There's 2 prongs holding the other half of the light on. The lamp will come loose by prying it (very hard). You think the cover will break, but it'll come loose. The bulbs were all OK.
After much frustration and internet info, the STOP LAMP SWITCH, GM#96436331 ($9.30 at Chevy dealer), which is located under the dash and has contact with the brake pedal, was defective. Once replaced, both my brake lights AND SHIFTING problems were cured. So if the brake lights suddenly don't work or you have problems getting the vehicle out of park, check the switch by pushing the prong (end that has contact with brake) of the switch in and out. If it doesn't retract smoothly...that's the PROBLEM. Good Luck.
SOURCE: Rr.ABS and the brake lights on
CHECK TO MAKE SURE WITH CAR RUNNING VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY SHOULD BE 13.5 VOLTS TO 14.5 VOLTS. USE A DIGITAL VOLT METER TO CHECK VOLTS AT BATTERY. WITH ENGINE OFF BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 12.5 VOLTS. IF NOT ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY.THAT WILL MAKE ABS AND BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON AND A FAULTY BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH WILL ALSO CAUSE ABS AND BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD.HAVE THE ABS BRAKES SCANNED.IN THIS CASE YOU ARE HAVING BRAKE FAILURE.BECAUSE WHEN BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON THATS WARNING BRAKE FAILURE BECAUSE THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER AND ABS UNIT IS TOGETHER AS ONE.NOT SAFE TO DRIVE.COULD LOSE BRAKE CONTROL AT ANY TIME TOW IT IN.
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
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