SOURCE: nissan altima 2003 how to change engine belt
TO REPLACE DRIVE BELT YOU LOOSEN DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT BOLT SLIP THE BELT OFF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND REMOVE IT. IF YOU GOT A 2.5L ENGINE YOU HAVE TO ROTATE THE BELT TENSIONER TO RELEASE TENSION ON THE SERPENTINE DRIVEBELT.YOU NEED A HAYNES MANUAL.IT WILL SHOW AND TELL YOU HOW TO ADJUST DRIVE BELT AND MEASURE THE DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION USING A STRAIGHT EDGE RULER.
SOURCE: crankshaft and camshaft sensors location in nissan altima 2003
You are incorrect sir. There is a very good Youtube video showing you exactly where it is that is how I changed mine. The Crankshaft is located behind the engine block below and around from the cam sensor which is easly spotted looking at the engine. The crankshaft is in a difficult spot but once you figure out where it is it's easy...ish hope this helps
SOURCE: 2003 nissan altima
First of all, you'll have to clarify which belt it is you're talking about. Is it a SERPENTINE drive belt or a Timing belt? Two totally different belts.
If its a timing belt, you're in luck as Nissan Altimas have timing chains on the engines which shouldn't need replacing for at the very least 100,000 miles. If you're talking about the serpentine drive belt on the other hand, there's really only one way it can go over the pulleys. One side of the belt it grooved, and one side is smooth. There's only one way it can go over all of the pulleys while having the grooved face sitting on grooved pulley surfaces,... should be really easy to figure out.
SOURCE: I have a 2005 nissan altima 2.5s no 2 coil burned
I think the problem here is that either the plug gap is too wide causing the coil to overheat by having to jump a excessive gap or its the position on the engine ,now i have to be carefull here what i answer as other experts mock me for some of my solutions like using manual cables and drilling holes in the bellhousing to lock the flywheel but providing the plug gap is 25th ,yes i know about modern engines using a wider gap but iam old school and if its too wide with these modern engines the excessive gap will cause the coil to work overtime but if the gap is right then check the coil supply voltage as if its too high on this particular cylinder for some obscure reason caused by the computer then this is out of my league and you would need the dealer plug in software to locate the problem but if its just packing up due to its location on the engine then my favourite thing and yes i do know i will be well ribbed for this and thats to leave the cover off the top of the engine for more air flow and then strap a 12v computer cooling fan to the top of the coil with a piece of thin fence wire ,plastic tie could stretch with the heat ,and wire it into the ignition on side of a fuse or the ignition switch and this should keep it cool and stop it from melting ,its a trick i do often with electronic components thats bolted to the engine and they can run hot ,like voltage regulators on motor bikes and ECU units bolted to the manifold like in the opel models and even onto the backs of alternators that are mounted by the exhaust manifold .
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