Hi. Have you inspected anything yet or do you plan on performing the diagnostics and repairs yourself? You are going to need a few tools to remove lower dash trim, part of the center console and a test light to for testing. My first guess is a worn out brake light switch but that isn't the only thing that can break or wear out. Check the shift selector lever first. Sometimes coins or other belongings are laid upon the shifter and jam it. You will know by simply holding the handle and lightly try to move it forward and back (repeatedly). If anything is jamming it there will be zero play. If there is play you will easily feel the lever move back and forth 1/16". If that passes check for blown fuses. If they pass, Component testing will be next. I use a scan tool to observe some functions, look for ABS codes and a test light for testing. You will need the test light to test for power and ground at the brake light switch and shift interlock solenoid. Please write back if I can be of anymore assistance, Good Luck.
SOURCE: 2005 Acura tl brake replacement
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.
SOURCE: how to change spark plugs on 2005 acura tl
Hi,
you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.
find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.
SOURCE: 2005 Acura TL Fuel Filter
the fuel filter for this is in the gas tank, it is part of the fuel pump module.
SOURCE: alarm problem on 97 acura tl - now car wont start
try turning the key on then taking the +side off then turn key off and reconect+
SOURCE: 96 acura tl 3.2l is overheating+signals wont work
Start with the easy one (hopefully). You probably have to replace your turn signal flasher. It's located behind the dash, driver side of steering column in the relay block (just pull out to remove).
Your overheating problem: Are you losing coolant, or is the car just running hot? Any leaks, puddles?
Check the cooling fans to make sure they are kicking on as the engine temp rises. If not, you may have a bad switch that is not telling the fan to go on. If fan(s) are operating ok, check the thermostat. If it isn't opening properly, it could be the cause of the overheating. If you have a leak in the system, then when it gets too low, it starts to overheat. Many possibilities, So, let me know the answers to the above so I can help further if needed.
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