At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
36mm is the consensus of opinion, but in reality, it is the socket that 'FITS'! Most socket sets come in metric and imperial, you use that one that is the best fit.
you could off the hub cap and measure the nut, with a metric rule.
the external torx same. with a caliper measure the head.
then use the e-torx table to mach it.
bet the first ever to post that. its rare to ask.
most folks just have the 2 sets. ( a life time investment if ever there was)
here is the table i uses, if ever http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way
it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the
wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly,
thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage
the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft
nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin
the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off
the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin
freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32
(or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn
freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and
forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little
little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the
wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.
If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends
around the axle nut.----
coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic
hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel
bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.
I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All
the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total
hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel
steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.
Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it
has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing
bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your
replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison
The most used method of removeing the bolt is to pull the starter and place something in the teeth of the fly wheel to keep it from moveing. I would use a large screwdrive or prybar. You could try rapping a strap tool around the harmonice balancer but not the best way of getting the bolt off.
×