SOURCE: DRL WORK BUT NO TAIL LIGHTS OR DASH LIGHTS AT NIGHT
I FIXED THIS ISSUE IN MY CASE. NOT TOO HARD IN A FEW MINUTES.
I didn't know there was another fuse box in the crevice of opening the passenger door. It helped when I found that out in the owners manual.
Narrowed things down by checking to see if I had rear parking/running lights since I heard this was also the dash light fuse.
*I did not have these rear parking lights coming on, just when I would apply the brake*
Sure enought that 15A fuse was blown, its in the passenger side box. I heard in my searching for a fix that this fuse also controlled dash lights. Sure enough it does! ( I have 2000 base model 3.4 impala)
SO, Things worked after that, UNTIL I MOVED MY ASH TRAY IN AND OUT A FEW TIMES!!
The dash lights flickered a bit when I moved the ashtray in and out and after a few times I heard a POP! and no more dash lights just like before. Fuse was blown, and I didn't have another 15A that wasnt plugged in making something work. My ashtray light had not been working for the last while by the way.
SO, I pulled out a 15A fuse from the the slot that said CIG on the passenger side, I never use the 12v ports anyway. (used it for the rear parking light/dash light slot to get the dash lights working again.)
*But, the dash lights looked a little lazy, meaning I could see a bit of a powerup happening over 1-2 seconds to full illumination*
SO. then I went in the book and found out what fuses that had anything to do with the ash/aux outlet sliding tray which was good at popping the fuse that lit up the dash. I wanted to disable the ashtray light and 12V ports in the tray to be safe.
I already pulled the appropriate 15A fuse on the passenger side which I used to bring the dash and rear parking lights back. But also, I decided to remove the 10A fuse on the drivers side that was for the accessory outlet. ( it might have been labelled CIG?)
Dash lights come on fast and solid now, sliding the tray does not have an influence or cause flickering.
My car is old enough that I don't care about having to rearrange fuses to make things work, If end up needing the 12v ports I can put the 10A fuse back in since the tray needs to be held open anyway.
I hope this helps.
SOURCE: how can I turn off DRL on 2000 toyota camry
Not sure exactly where your fuse box is located but find that and refer to your owners manual for a fuse layout. It should have its own fuse.
[Information] For a 2002 Toyota Camry, the Daytime
Running Lights (DRL) operate utilizing the High Beams (inner Lamps closer to
the center of the vehicle front) at a reduced power.
[The troubleshooting process:] Review the Owner's Manual and ensure the test
configuration matches the following criteria:
1. According to the 2002 Toyota Camry Owner's Manual (Check your Owners Manual):
"The DRL system will make your headlights come on at a reduced brightness
when:
The light switch s in the "DRL" position.
The ignition is on with the engine running.
The headlight switch is off.
The parking brake is released."
2. Set the Test Conditions according to Step 1 above.
3. Check the headlight bulbs to ensure they are not
burned out. If one burns out, there is a fair chance that the other would have burned
out at the same time. Replace as necessary.
In this case, if the high beams operate, the DRLs should also operate.
4. Test the system, ensuring the step 1 conditions are set. (Engine running, Multi-function
Switch on Turn Signals in "DRL" position, headlight switch off
(repeating what the manual says -- it should be obvious that in the
"DRL" position, the headlight switch should be off / do not have the
switch positioned to "High Beam"), and the Parking Brake
"off").
5. If DRL lights do not work, check the engine compartment Fuse and Relay Box.
there is a 5 Amp DRL fuse -- replace it with the spare. Test (step 4).
6. If it does not work, swap around or replace relays -- there are three (3).
Any one of them could be bad (stuck or burned out). Test (step 4).
7. Other less likely possible issues
could be that the Multi-function Switch is broken or a connection / wire is
broken. [Beyond the scope of this
process.]
My problem was that the test configuration did not have
the engine running and parking brake off - Step 1. Problem solved with much
thought, repetitive tests on the vehicle and going back to the basics -- what
does the Owner's Manual say and where are the applicable fuses and relays
located?
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