Car won't start once in a while, mostly after it sit's a few days. it cranks ok and almost starts. good spark, and has fuel but I can't test fuel pre. if I pull the lines from the tank it starts and runs for a week or two but then the same thing again???
Re: Car won't start once in a while, mostly after it...
Your on the right track,you need three things to run an engine spark fuel and air,you can test your pump another way its primitive take 2+2 carb cleaner get access to your throttle body have someone try starting the engine while another sprays the carburetor cleaner into the throttle body if it runs while you spray and then stops when you dont your fuel pump is the problem.Chrysler is know for this fuel pump problem.
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Check all fuses includeing main fuse if all good. While cranking check for spark if spark present check for fuel pressure , if no spark test coil if coil is good I would suspect a bad computer if no fuel pressure you have a bad fuel pump
while it sits ?, or when trying to start it ck your air filter if you are getting spark and fuel this should start , if you are getting good spark ck the fuel pressure on the rail to see what it is should be 40-50 lbs no to sure but ck that first , sound like you pump is bad
no starts. cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.
ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)
5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.
this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.
Example 2.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
or no?
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.
Testing of the fuel and ignition systems is in order. Intermittent problems need testing when the problem is present, otherwise it won't help find the problem. I would start by checking for spark on a spark plug wire (or two or three plug wires, in case it may be a bad coil), during those times when it won't start. You need to see a blue, snapping spark to verify ignition system is working. To check the fuel system, have the fuel pressure checked, and the injector circuit checked. Good that you hear the pump, but you don't know if fuel pressure is correct, or if fuel is getting into the cylinders. One short test is to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the intake while engine is cranking. If engine fires up for a few seconds, you know it is a gas related problem. If ignition system is the intermittent problem, could be failing coil or coils, ignition module, crank position sensor, even the computer, or a wiring problem like a bad connection. Testing of each component will be required, or you could start throwing new parts at it, like many people do, until you find the bad part. Find a reputable mechanic-there still are a few, lol.
Well the battery and alternator would not have anything to do with the engine starting. You would need to check the ignition system to see if you are getting the correct spark at the plugs when the engine fails to start.
If it's been sitting for 3 years I would do as follows 1. Drain tank of all gas, give it some fresh gas. 2. Change the Spark Plugs Attempt to start it. (Keep in mind it may take a few times to get all that old gas out of the lines) Sitting it the worst thing for a rig. I advise never let it go without starting it ATLEAST once a month If that doesn't work make sure it is getting fuel to the motor. If so it could be your Distributor or Coil. Good luck
first you need to test for spark if there is spark then check for fuel if there iis no spark have your ignition module ckecked for fuel take the lifuel line off from fuel tank to fuel lilter it is not difficult.
I saw something similar to this on a 1991 dodge van a few days ago.. turns out it was the battery. It was odd, because it cranked over fine and had spark and fuel, but would not start. If your battery is good, then confirm that your fuel pressure is ok
Its not the oil, increasing temperature will thin out the oil. If it cranks easily but won't start it could be the spark plugs or the spark plug wires. When they heat up, especially if they are old, they won't perform well. Pull off one of the wires and hold it close to the plug, try to crank the engine and look for a spark. If it sparks them try removing a plug and check to see if it looks wet. If its bone dry it might not be getting fuel.
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