Dodge Journey R/T 2010 NZ new. Replaced battery 2-3 months ago, now have to recharge it every night. Can hear clicking from vicinity of fuse box for a long time after car switched off. Apparently a common problem in the USA but websites don't contain verified solutions. Does anyone know for certain whether this is in the steering wheel, control module or somewhere else.
2010 Dodge Journey , drained battery all the time, clicking all the time , HORN HONKING
PROBLEM ... TIPM.... very common to go bad and cause your horn relay which is soldiered inside of it to go nuts , also windows and other things ...
This problem might be a short circuit in the "clockspring' device that is in the steering wheel. That is pretty easy to replace and not real expensive. Youtube vids show how to do this.
SOURCE: security system/battery
plz check the following and update me
1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
4. Compression in the cylinders (Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)
SOURCE: 1999 toyota corolla Horn doesn't work.
Usually the wire from the steering wheel is Green w/Red and the wire to the horn from the fuse box is White. There is only one fuse, sometimes shared with the emergency lights. Check to see if there is power to the horn itself with a volt meter.
SOURCE: 1997 Suburban and horn not working
behind the airbag is the horn switch i dont reccomend checking the the switch unless you know how to disarm the srs systems but i accidently leaned on it once pushed the plate in and when i pushed on it it went off but if i took my hand off it it would go back on otherwise their could just be a simple short
SOURCE: excessive battery drain when all is switched off
i have a 2003 ford windstar that had both battery drain and flickering dome lights and solved both. The battery drain believe it or not was the radio which is factory. This was the only fuse that i didn't pull(trying too narrow my drain) because it didn't look like a fuse.... it looks like a square block and it took a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out. Once i got it out it initially raised the amp pull, but then i waited the 30 minutes for the computor go to sleep or into hibernative mode the amp dropped off to next to nothing.... below what factory spec said it should be....next the flickering dome lights.... it turned out to be a wiring culprit in the headliner above the support post behind the passenger sliding door.... i re-wrapped it and haven't seen a flicker since. Oh and one other thing i would like to add, we thought my transmission had gone up about a year ago.... even the dealer said i needed a new tranny, but after talking to a couple of mechanics i was convinced to replace the torque converter and i was back on the road driving. The symtom was that it just stopped! We drove to the store fine and came back out to go home and it started fine but would not move. I hope all this info helps many who are struggling out there!!
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