My partners 1.6 Astra 04 plate rear passenger door won't unlock. I have found 2 split wire's after cutting protective cover open. I'm unable to get to find the other ends so I can reconnect but need to get the door open. Anyone know how I am able to get the door open so I'm able to sort the wiring? Thanks in advance

see a FORD dealer locally

Help! Door wont open! [Archive] - Astra Owners Network Forum ' MK1 ...

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Nov 29, 2009 - 31 posts - ‎16 authors
my rear passenger door is stuck shut but all the other doors open ok. i ... the insideby pulling the chrome handle, it will not open from the outside. ... the battery again after the fixed wire. strange vauxhall thing, some times even ...

sounds like something may be shorted in your rear hatch switch and when you pushed the button to open it you may have blown a fuse. I would check your fuse and make sure they are all still good. I would also try to look inside the rear hatch and check the wires and see if there is something wrong with one of them.

There is a splice joint under the passenger side sill plate, under the second plate, about adjacent to the right front seat mounting. Split the harness open. Look for a blue tape with three thin green with white stripe wires. Open the tape. The joint is corroded and broken apart. This feeds the alarm rf receiver. Fix the splice and your remotes will work. - Kyle L.

You have listed the vehicle is a 1987 Jaguar XJ6. The trunk is not electronic and only unlocks with the key as well as both the gas doors. Any issues here then it is your key or the actual trunk latch. If you do have a 1988 model year then the trunk lock has 3 positions. locked all the time, unlocked all the time or the vertical position locks and unlocks with the vehicles drivers door lock. If the trunk button (paddle) is loose and moves but nothing happens then the inside rod has come loose and you will have to manually operate the latch by removing the license plate and taking a long screw driver through the lower plastic bungs. The fuel flap is a separate unite and does have a manual release but you need to open the trunk to get to it. If the fuel flap stays locked all the time then the actually filler neck module will need replacing.If you have a 1997 which has the electronic release button to open the trunk (95-2003) Then you will need to firstly lock all door and unlock the drivers door 2 times. Check the fuel flap is now released, if not then the fuel flap actuator located on the filler neck inside the trunk is bad. If the trunk does not open with the remote, inside car switch and trunk mounted switch then the passenger side trunk harness is broken. Open the trunk with the key and on the right(passenger) hinge there is a grey plastic cover, remove that cover and carefully peel back the wiring harness cover and you will find 1 or more broken wires. Once the wires are repaired then I recommend you zip tie them in place and retest the trunk release button.If this does not answer any of your questions please feel free to email [email protected]

Possibly the wires at the drivers door where they go into the body,sometimes from the door
being opened more than the rest ,the wires will break there.
Should be able to cut a **** in the rubber boot that covers them and look for a broken wire.
If they break at the drivers door neither switch will work.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block
The instrument panel fuse block access door is
located on the driver side edge of the instrument panel.

Pull off the cover to access the fuse block.

The vehicle may not use all of the fuses shown.

Fuses Usage
1 Rear Seats
2 Rear Accessory Power Outlet
3 Steering Wheel Controls Back light
4 Driver Door Module
5 Dome Lamps, Driver Side Turn Signal
6 Driver Side Turn Signal, Stop lamp
7 Instrument Panel Back Lighting
8 Passenger Side Turn Signal, Stop lamp
9 Passenger Door Module, Driver Unlock
10 Power Door Lock 2 (Unlock Feature)
11 Power Door Lock 2 (Lock Feature)
12 Stop lamps, Centre High Mounted Stop lamp
13 Rear Climate Controls
14 Power Mirror
15 Body Control Module (BCM)
16 Accessory Power Outlets
17 Interior Lamps
18 Power Door Lock 1 (Unlock Feature)
19 Rear Seat Entertainment
20 Ultrasonic Rear Parking Assist, Power Liftgate
21 Power Door Lock 1 (Lock Feature)
22 Driver Information Centre (DIC)
23 Rear Wiper
24 Cooled Seats
25 Driver Seat Module, Remote Key less Entry System
26 Driver Power Door Lock (Unlock Feature)

Hi, there, ye i have a similar problem, both my taillights and brake lights go on when i turn my lights on... i havnt found the solution to that yet.
But to answer your question on how to remove the taillight you undo the 2 screws on the inside of where the tailgate door closes and then pull the light out away from the car... ie to the side... there are 2 clips inside that you have to pull to make release.
the tail lights in the tailgate you have to remove the carpet and then undo the pannel.

sequence for freelander lock unlock, to lock 1press = door lock , 2press = door dead lock , to unlock 1 press = driver door unlock, 2 press = passenger doors unlock, also rear window can be operated from fob to do so press and hold unlock button for 3 or more seconds and rear window will roll down.neat feature.hope this helps

Most likely the problem is a broken wire in the harness - this is a common problem with these doors. You can see the harness in the track beneath the door sill. It is inclosed in a plastic 'chain like' mechanism. You can remove the entire harness as follows. Open the door 1/2 way and disconnect the connector on the inside bottom of the door. Pry out the fasteners holding the harness up to the door bottom support. remove the 2 screws on the bootm support cover. Carefully pry the end of the 'chain' down with a flat screwdriver.
Now pry up the door sill cover - it will just snap up. Pul back the door gasget at the bottom of the post and pry back the plastic post cover. You will find another connector under this near the seat belt mount. Disconnect this and barefully pry out the other harness attachments. A new cable runs about $70 from the dealer but I repaired mine. You cannot simply splice at the break because the break occured at the max stress point. Use a new piece of wire - I cut open a heavy duty extension cord and used on wire from it as these are designed to flex many times without breaking. Splice near the ends of the harness using crimps and/or solder and shrink tubing. Put it back and it should work.