I have a 2000 Durango with code 720 and I replaced my tranny speed sensor 2 times and my engine light won't turn off. The first time in replaced it the cel was off for a day then turned right back on, where do I go from here

.threw low voltage to speed sensor ??? What's the code number P0xxx what ?. low voltage to speed sensor so you replaced it ? You people crack me up. you have a code reader pull a code an replace a part ,that's not how it works . In a service repair manual there are diagnostic procedures to follow for every code . Testing an not guessing is how to fix these type problems .


I'm leaning towards the ignition switch what could it be . Wheel sensors.? Tcm? Speed sensor buffer ? Computer ?

Quit trying to play auto tech . an take it to a qualified repair shop. you have no clue . The emergency brake light as you call it also comes on when there is a problem with the brake system and or the abs system ,hooking up a professional type scan tool an checking abs codes should also have been done .


Which engine does yours have ?

Engine Controls - 4.3L
Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L

check do you'r gear box has vss on it

I think your reverse to park trick was a fluke,, I assume it turns over but since it is a 1995 you dont have a OBD 2 in the vehicle.
How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups:


The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other.

For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines)

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
44 ECCS Normal Operation.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

ECU Diagnostic Mode Procedures
Mode I - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode I to determine if the Oxygen Sensor is functioning properly.

Warm the engine to normal temperature.
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
Make sure the GREEN LED goes on and off more than five times during ten seconds at 2000 RPM.
If the number of flashes are not more than five, replace the oxygen sensor. If the LED does not flash, check the sensor's circuit.


Mode II - Mixture Ratio Control Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode II to determine if the air/fuel mixture is cycling correctly.

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise (or if you have a switch, turn it on).
After the LED flashes twice, turn the dial fully counter clockwise (or turn the switch off).
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
If the RED LED blinks simultaneously with the GREEN LED, the air/fuel mixture is cycling properly.
If the RED LED stays off, the mixture is more than 5% rich.
If the RED LED stays on, the mixture is more than 5% lean.
If the RED LED stays on or off above 2000 RPM, complete the diagnostics before beginning repairs.


Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode III to retrieve all stored trouble codes in memory.
Use the above posted procedures.


Mode IV - Switch Operation Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode IV to determine if the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Starter circuit and/or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are in proper working order.

Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 4 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure the RED LED is turned off.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when depressing the gas pedal. If not, check or replace the Throttle Position Sensor.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when turning the ignition key the START position. If not, check or replace the starter.
Drive the vehicle with the ECU unbolted and within view. Make sure the GREEN LED turns on when speed is 12 MPH or more. If not, check or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor.


Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly.

Start engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise.
After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine.
If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs. Perform real-time diagnosis inspection and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present.
if LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off.

If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

Hope this helps...
__________________

sounds like a cam chirping, cant remember if that was normal for that engine, mine did it randomly, oil light could be a bad pressure sensor, hopefully it isnt your bearings wearing out, good luck i hated this car

is this a generic code or manufacturers code as i cannot find these number in any of the codes

P0700....Transmission Control System (MIL Request)

P0720....Output Speed Sensor Circuit

hope this helps

I will try to help..ihave a 2000 dodge durango with the 4.7 v8..My trans started shifting funny and the rpm's would go up to 2000+rpm when i was driving, which means i was getting really crappy gas mileage at 40mph..took it to shop, engine light on,put it on machine to diagnose..got a generic p0700 code plus a couple others..code basically says tranny is fn up..
Try this a cheap fix first that worked for me..on the transmission,driver side there are two sensors..input/output transmission speed sensors..to be exact..they send info to computer to regulate shift points in trans..upshift and downshift..replace them both although one may be the culprit..cost at the dealer here in Delaware was $40.72 for one..there is one bolt(8mm)and one electrical connection to each..time to replace both about 15minutes you don't even have to jack up truck but you will have to get underneath.

Hope this helps and good luck..if you change them and find the tranny shifting properly..cycling the on and off switch will eventually turn off the engine light..just drive it normally i mean..go here shut it off..get back in start it up and go..it will go out..good luck

you need to put your key in the ignition turn til dash lights come on dont start engine then turn it off ,do this 3 times leaving key in the power position on the 3rd time, watch your speedo and check the codes . p0700 is a tranny problem,you dont need to get it scanned at a dealer unless you need to 95% it is the speed output sensor 5 minute fix under 100 buks do it yourself. any other code check it and go on the internet cuz alot of people get ripped off and its a simple cam sensor , crank, abs, speed,etc....

I have a 2000, there is a speed sensor located in top of the rear axel and I believe another on the tranny housing. Try the rear axel first.

First thing you want to do, is get all that additive stuff out of there & get new filter & proper fluid in there. Mopar ATF 4. then disconnect battery for minute or 2 & start fresh as far as storing trouble codes goes. Chrysler transmissions don't react well to improper fluids or additives. If it starts to act up again, or check engine light comes on, have it scanned for codes at Autozone, or Pep boys & see what codes if any, come up. Don't prolong any transmission problem, as it will only cost you more in the end, if you don't take care of it right away.

I put in a new crank positioning sensor and it fixed my problem. 42.00 dollars from NAPA. took about 2 hours to change it.