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random misfires is from
low fuel pressure
. ECM fault
possible cam/ crank position sensor faults
loose harness connections , bad ground point
Mostly low fuel pressure from a faulty pressure regulator so start your checks in that area
I doubt it as it was sold "as is" meaning that you accept responsibility for everything that is wrong with it. Having said that and not seeing the paper work needed for the transaction and what the seller told you there may be a case of misrepresentation because of what the seller said or inferred. Find a sharp legal council and discuss aspects of a possible claim
for one take that shop to court there jucing the hell out of ya replacing the same parts over and over agian. 2nd wd 40 the bushings on the lower connects that will take care of the squeaks and have a mechanic install some grease fittings down there so u can grease them. apparently in the turn of melinium cars the didnt come stock that way from the factory. meaning u had to have a mech do it when the part wore out or broke found that out the hard way. take you recipets and take those ***** mechs to court then use that money and get it done right
You could try and sue him in small claims court, but are you saying that the total price of the car was $500.00? Are you also saying that there was an additional price for the warranty, but you did not purchase it? You most likely have no case. Buyer beware situation. If this was an "as is" sale, then you don't have a leg to stand on. Sorry. Of course, you will probably give me a low rating because I told you the truth. My suggestion is to gwet a consultation from an attorney. This is not the forum for legal advice.
Not to knock the ability of the mechanics where you have your work done, but with all the electrical problems you're experiencing, it would be money well spent to take the car to an electrical specialist. He can track down shorts and maybe get a lot of your issues fixed. In the future, when service is needed, a ASE qualified mechanic is well worth the money. Spending a few dollars now could ensure that in a few months you will own a good running car with no car payment. Best of luck. Greg
there is an easier way to replace the fuel pump than dropping the tank. I replaced mine last week in about 30 min. I simply took the bed off only six or eight bolts depending on bed size, a few tail light wires and filler neck and over flow. might need someone to help get the bed off though.
180 milli-amps is way to much draw,ford's limit is 50 milli-amps but typically we usually only see around 20-30. Now when you say fuse 2 is that in the under-hood fuse panel or the interior fuse panel? And if this vehicle is a 2007 it may still be under factory warranty which was 36 months or 36000 miles providing that the add on automatic starter is not causing your draw.Which in that case the people who installed it should be responsible for that.
I have just purchased this car in the winter and found that the A/C was not blowing cold air. I am one month past warranty. I was told the same about the compressor not engaging. There is a charge as well and the Freon was drained and retested. Do yourself a favor....I have had the A/C clutch and Stator replaced, then the compressor, and now after $1000 (not including the charge of $1500 for compressor replace)I still have no A/C. It turns out that now the dealership has informed me that there is a blockage that cannot be blown free and the entire dashboard must be removed and a valve and the filter must be replaced. The blockage caused the clutch, stator, and the compressor to blow due to the Freon trying to be pushed through the blockage. The total cost to the job is $2,300 and the dealership ended up keeping my car for 1-1/2 weeks. Save yourself a lot of time and hopefully money and bring this to the attention of your repairman. Most of the time took them trying to isolate the problem. This sounds like a common occurance in the 2005 RL. I hope you have better luck than I did and hopefully save you some money.
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