Question about 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

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Isuzu Rodeo check engine flashing - leaking transmission fluid

I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo - 76,000 miles. Noticed it was leaking fluid and the check engine light was flashing when I started it up in the morning but only when I was accelerating. Took it to my mechanic - he fixed gasket/pan and does not seem to be leaking anymore, but could not get the flashing light to repeat. The next morning I started started driving and there was the flashing light again. Once I shut the car off - the light stopped coming on. It only does it when the car sets all night and apparently is completely cooled off. Left it my mechanic tonight so he can try it first thing in the morning. Any ideas??? Also, the drive train is still under warranty (120 months or 120,000 miles) - should I have it an Isuzu dealer?

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Are there any Isuzu dealers in America anymore? I thought they all left. If you have one still, go to it.

Posted on Aug 12, 2009

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I have the exact same situation you have!! Did you end up getting your's fixed and if so, what was the problem. Mine is scheduled to go into the shop tomorrow and i'm trying to avoid the high cost of an Isuzu dealer. Any help would be great?

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

James H

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SOURCE: timing settings for a 1998 isuzu rodeo

You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.

It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).

2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.

3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.

4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.

5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.

6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).

7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.

8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.

9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.

10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.

11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.

I hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

honeymokey

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SOURCE: I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 4x4 with 3.2 dohc.

Yours is leaking from the round side servo cover. A quick fix for someone that knows the correct way to put them in. It is held in by a snap ring and a big spring is underneath it pushing it out. So it must be pressed down to remove and replace the snap ring. A common problem for these vehicles. They will drip on the edge of the pan and make it look like it is leaking.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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