Most likely the free play required between the brake pedal and the debooster you replaced.
If all 4 brakes drag,
it can not be anything else, ensure the brake deboost has clearance, between the master cylinder. not partly acitivated already and pushed the master cylinder in slightly. Always look what you did previously and when the problem occurred. Brake pedal to debooster, or debooster to master cylinder both must have some clearance.
Glad I can advise, wetter or not I,m corret is an other story! You did everything right, think about it, all 4 brakes are dragging, after you replaced the master cylinder, pull the master cylinder back off the debooster and check the debooster, if I'm correct one side of the diaghram is vented to the outside air and the other side has the vacuum of the engine applied, ensure that this vent is not blocked, start the engine and look wetter or not the diagphram is moving towards the side of the master (not sure you can do this with the master removed), also ensure when you rebold the master back on that you have clearance between the debooster and master actuating rod if all is good than it only can be the debooster, you do not have ABS do you? Did you bleed the system with engine running ? You will have to, otherwise you never get the air out of the brake system.Good luck and remember 2 things, either the de- booster or master!!
Read again your E mail, you mentioned ABS, this could be at fault also ! If installed.
Correct no adjustment, and I would do the same thing, use shims!!The brake fluid on top of the ABS system, not sure , keep whiping clean for a while, try to locate were it is coming from excactly, sometimes when the master cylinder is to full it will spill also, remember brake fluid exspends when getting warm..
Not sure about that one ! Ensure to check the engine breathing system, oil fumes are recirculated through the engine and burned off, some how they and up in the debooster, ensure it is engine oil and not brake fluid.
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Thanks; I've suspected that free play could be an issue but I'm hesitating to pull all of this back off (m/c, booster, pedal linkage, etc.). I don't remember there being an adjustment assembly on the booster/servo. I checked to see when I purchased the servo and it was exactly one year ago (8/18/2008). I performed a check of the servo as follows: 1) run vehicle to warm-up, 2) apply the pedal and hold, 3) stop the engine while pedal still depressed, 4) pedal should not rise nor sink while holing the pedal for 30 seconds. Problem is ... my pedal rises after about 10 seconds. Could I have a bad brake booster/servo; even though I replaced it less than one year ago? I thought I was buying a new unit. I also performed the following check while the engine was off and rotors were cool: 1) compressed the cylinder with a clamp to release the pads from the rotor, 2) pressed the pedal until pad engaged with rotor, 3) seemed to operate fine (i.e., no issue with cylinder/caliper free travel), 4) release brake and was abel to turn rotor freely with minimal binding. Then when I started the vehicle the servo unit kicked in and without even applying brake pedal the rotor was very difficult to spin. Brake booster problem or still suspect free play? Thanks in advance for opinions/advice.
We just shimmed the m/c off the booster about 1/8 inch using washers. Test drove and much better response; very little if any drag after a few trips around the subdivision. Came back home and removed the shims, reconnecting the m/c on the booster and took another test drive ... brakes are dragging/locking up again. In the meantime I found the old servo/booster unit in my garage (I keep too much crap like that). There appears to be no adjustment option on the length of push rod. This is driving me nuts (no pun intended). Any other thoughts?
One other bit of useful information. I noticed fluid on the top of the brake ABS hydraulic unit the other day. I thought it was perhaps brake fluid spilt the other day when we replaced the master cylinder; since the ABS unit is next to the m/c. I wiped the ABS unit clean. Today, after driving the vehicle as described above, after the m/c shim test, I noticed a fresh accumulation of fluid on top of the brake ABS hydraulic unit again. I doubt this is normal. There appears to be two small ports on top of the unit, perhaps pressure release ports, and I suspect this is where the fluid is leaking. I'm hoping the ABS unit is not the problem as these run $900, plus. Does this offer any meaningful data in troubleshooting the problem with brakes dragging?
Removed the booster/servo and found oil inside. Would have had to enter through the vacuum lines attached to the booster. Does this indicate a bad vacuum pump or another problem??
Removed the servo/booster this evening and found it full of oil. It would have to have entered the servo through the vacuum lines. Does this indicate a bad vacuum pump or some other issue??
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