Here is the procedure - you have to determine if it is within your skillset....
You will need spring compressors.
Cheapo ratcheting ones can be had for $25, or you can rent a pneumatic type.
Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety
procedures.
Remove or disconnect the following:
WheelUpper shock mounting nuts.
Discard the nuts.Nut and the stabilizer bar
link. Discard the nut.Bolt, flag nut and the spring
and shock absorber as an assembly. Discard the flag nut.
Using a suitable spring compressor, compress the spring until the
tension is released from the shock absorber.
While holding the flats of the washer, remove the nut.
Remove the shock absorber. Discard the nut, remove the washer, bushing
and the upper mount.
Remove the insulator.
Remove the dust shield.
To install-
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Observe the following torques:
Center nut: 37 ft. lbs. (50
Nm)Lower shock bolt: 258 ft. lbs.
(350 Nm).Sway bar link nut: 18 ft. lbs.
(25 Nm)Upper shock nuts: 20 ft. lbs.
(30 Nm)
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Medium intense. Do one at a time and buy a sears or better gas shock.It may be easier if you take the front wheels off.Use jack stands.And remember to slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts before you jack up the truck.
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It's a pretty intense job and requires specialty tools. You might want to have a competent shop do it for you. You need a large spring compressor and job requires front end part removals (it's not like replacing shock absorber) Shop around lots of shops have sales, plus they warranty their work.
The first thing I would do is check tire pressure. They should be around 30psi (the sticker on the door will give you the correct tire infation pressure). Next, if you have never had the front end checked out get it checked out. You are about the mileage where worn front end parts start to show up. Also check the coils in the rear. They are pretty common to break along with the rear tie rod ends which either get loose in the knuckle or the joint gets sloppy. Also check the wheel bearings. It is not uncommon for the explorers to come in and have 3 out of 4 bad wheel bearings. Sometimes they are so bad the vehicle wanders severely and they can not be driven over 20-30 MPH.
Typically worn shocks/struts will give you a softer/floaty type of ride when they are worn out. They can also start to bind which is less common.
If the boots are ripped on your lower ball joints you will need to replace them, rain water has washed away the factory lubricant they have no grease fitting from the factory. Replacements will come with grease fittings. Tie rod ends can also be the source of the noise, same deal no factory fittings. VERY COMMON PROBLEM.
being 1996 750 4.8 litre fairly heavy car, I wouldn't doubt the car would need new struts/shock replacement all around. front tend to go out first before the rear because of extras weight of the motor, you can feel the ride more spongy going over bumps, poor handing when cornering and once awhile you can hear the metal hitting metal. have all coil springs also check, some get weaken and will make the car sit higher on one side or front sit higher than the rear or which ever. I would have the coil spring check and replace all shocks/struts you be surprise the car will ride as it was new, suspension has allot to do with comfort and handling. If you have to replace the shock/struts, get an estimate first from your local shop for the price of 4 shocks and then shop on ebay first to see if you can do a bit of saving, don't forget including your shipping also including into the cost. any garage will out it in for you.
It depends on how many inches you want to lift it. Keeping it simple. replace your shocks with air shocks or better go to summit.com and find out about their spring spacers. that way you don't replace your springs or shocks
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
Sounds like it is your CV axles. Turn the wheel one direction, right or left, and check just behind the wheels to see if your CV boot is cracked or ripped (the boot is a black, rubber accordion looking thing). If it is cracked or ripped, I would say that is definitely the problem.
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