You have to check all fuses and relays first before you start replacing things chasing the problem and spending $$$$$$$for the wrong reason was this the same issue before you changed the neutral safety switch yes/no? That switch has to be adjusted on most cars before it will start anyway go to your battery cables check for looseness that they are clean of sulfer/battery acid /corrosion around the terminals and post and that you can not turn them by twisting now go to the power distribution box and do the same thing under the hood there's a relay there that should click when you turn the key after the cleaning check that and make sure the cable connections to the box the stud and the cables lugs are clean and shiny also the ground to the engine and those starter cables I understand everything works but that's possible because a limited amount of voltage is needed for this components to operate also this could've happened if corrosion was present you could've lost power momentarily which would sound the alarm or the horn it would've put the car into theft mode if the remote keyfob was not used to stop it you have a pats system (secure a lock) from ford with a chip key any break in power will cause your vehicle to go into theft mode and you might not have known that it happened this will give you a totally dead key no click at all as well as the neutral safety switch same thing if not adjusted properly if that applies to your car you need to have someone turn the key to start while you are moving the switch to adjust it then it will crank,and remember that obviously I'm not there so I need you to be as precise as possible in your post of (a) symptoms before you changed any parts (b) all the things you did upto now and write it all down so you don't forget to include it in the next post we will get there good luck stephen
SOURCE: wont start
There's only 2 more things that I can think of, check the fuse for the ignition, then the computor itself, you did everything else.It might be the problem and may not.
SOURCE: 94 z wont start
check the ignition fuse, fuseable link and starter relay
Testimonial: "thank you - i'll check"
SOURCE: fuel pump replacement on 2005 ford focus
Are you sure that you need to replace the pump? I drive a 54 plate mk2 1.6 zetec that wouldn't always start and I was told it was the fuel pump in the tank but because the fault was intermitant I didn't have it fitted and found out that the car didn't start because the fuel lift pump wasn't priming the system before starting. I found that there was a faulty connection on the relay for the pump that is in the compartment under the glove compartment.
SOURCE: my 05 equinox will not
It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks
Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.
It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
Trucks
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GMC/Chevy
1998-2006 S10/T10/Sonoma
/Blazer/Jimmy
1998-2007 Suburban/Avalanche
/Tahoe/Yukon
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2002-2008 Trailblazer
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1988-2002 Camaro
1995-2005 Cavalier
1982-2004 Corvette
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2000-2005 Impala
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1997-2003 Malibu
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Cadillac
1986-1993 Allante
1982-1996 Fleetwood
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1992-2004 Seville
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1985-1999 Deville
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1988-2002 ElDorado
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1999-2007 Escalade
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Saturn
2000 LS/LS1/LS2/LW1/LW2
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2001-2003 L200/LW200
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2002-2008 VUE
1996-2002 SL/SL1/SL2
1996-2002 SC1/SC2
1996-2002 SW1/SW2
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