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The problem you have is getting the cams to the correct timing as they have no timing marks, at least externally.
You can use the method described in your other post, with all the pistons mid travel, you will have free reign essentially to turn the camshafts.
The only trouble I foresee is getting the crank onto the timing mark (you will need the bottom timing cover on the engine to get the crankshaft to the timing mark). Once the crank is timed, you should insert the crank locking pin for that engine (available from most Euro Car parts specialist shops)
On the front of the camshaft gear on each bank you will see an eye shaped washer under the securing bolt. This washer has a hole either side of the centre bolt, one hole is larger than the other. The larger hole goes to the inside (at least it does on the 40V V8) and the smaller hole to the outside. With the holes in their correct alignment, the two eye shaped washers should point towards each other. There is a cam alignment tool available to ensure you get the cams in alignment across the engine.
If you can't get the cams and crank aligned this way (do not force anything), you may need to pull the cams, but this introduces a whole heap of complication in keeping the inlet and exhaust cams in time with each other on their chain and in general timing (I think there is a mark on the exhaust cam chain cog which may assist with this)
Ok, correct order for all these comments is 3, 2, 1...
When putting the new timing belt and tensioner on, get a copy of the workshop timing belt instructions and be sure to follow them carefully. It is easy to mis-time these engines by aligning the eccentric pulley and tensioner (the spring damper part is actually the tensioner) incorrectly. The eccentric pulley should get nowhere near it's top of travel.
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SOURCE: 1997AudiA6Quatro2.8L-aligning cam and crankshaft for timing belt
You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...
SOURCE: i replaced head set #1 piston at tdc aligned
The pistons are hitting the valves. The Cams are out of time somehow
SOURCE: 1992 Volvo 960 Broken timing belt
IF U BROKE THIS BELT WHILE DRIVING U HAVE BENT THE VALVES IN THE ENGINE, THIS IS WHAT IS CALLED AN INTERFERENCE DESIGN ENGINE, THAT MEANS WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS THE PISTONS HIT THE ENGINES VALVES
Testimonial: "THanks - was not able to accept this last answer, but thankfully I found another way to say THANKS. That notch was suspicious!"
you need to have the motor on top dead centre, and on compression stroke number one cylinder. That is the starting pointthis link will take you to a site that explains how the timing is sethttp://www.samarins.com/glossary/dohc.html
I hope this helpsregards
SOURCE: Fitting n13 timing belt
In Australia the 1990 Nissan N13 engine has a timing BELT not a chain, this could be that the compliance plate reflects the date the vehicle leaves the assembly plant & not the day it was built
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