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Bob Stanley Posted on Aug 27, 2019
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2001 Audi A6 Quattro, 2.8l 30 valve. How do I set the cams and crank timing without damaging the valves when the timing belt was removed with the engine not on TDC

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Vernon Taylor

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  • Audi Master 7,446 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 27, 2019
 Vernon Taylor
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Joined: Oct 05, 2008
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Remove the spark plugs and measuring the distance through the plug holes with a rod, very gently turn the crankshaft (either way) until you are certain all the pistons are well below tdc and then gently bring the camshaft(s) to the timing position, followed by bringing the crank to the timing position.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1586 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2008

SOURCE: Timing belt

I believe the 2.7T is set up the same as the 2.8 engine in the A4. In this car (which I own), to do the timing service, cylinder #3 needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke - it's the key cylinder, rather than #1. This is the rear cylinder on the passenger bank. Looking from above, with the nose of the car at the bottom, the arrangement is:

3 6
2 5
1 4

On the 2.8 (again, I am about 95% sure the 2.7T is the same), there are ovoid-shaped brackets witht different-sized holes in them on the exhaust cam pulleys, meant for mounting a cam locking tool (which is unnecessary). When the engine is rotated so that those brackets are horizontal, with the larger holes to the inside, and the smaller holes to the outside, you are at TDC on cylinder #3.

It's almost academic though - as I found when doing timing belt jobs on the 2.8, the cam lock tool is unneeded, since the cams will not spin when the belt comes off, and there are no indexing marks on the timing belt itself - all the positioning that you need to do is to rotate the engine (use a 24mm socket on the crank bolt), so that the oval exhaust cam brackets are horizontal with the larger of the two holes in each positioned toward the center of the engine. From there, you're good to go.

As a side note, when you put it back together, put the timing tensioner on first, then loop the timing belt over the crank sprocket, up over the idler, and over the driver's side cam first, holding tension on the belt and pulling it tight as you do so. Then go under the large center top pulley, around the passenger exhaust cam sprocket (again, pulling tightly so you don't end up with slack in the belt), and then you'll be able to slide it up over the tensioner (someone needs to be pulling the tensioner so that it allows a little play in the belt as it goes on - once the belt is in place, release the tensioner and it'll snug the belt perfectly).

When it's on fully, note the position of the exhaust cam brackets, and rotate the engine with the socket on the crank, two full rotations. Make sure you don't have any background noise (ie, radio, talking people, etc) while you do this. This will rotate the cams once, and you can stop when the brackets reach the position they were in intially. What you're doing is taking the engine through one full revolution by hand, listening for any valve-piston clearance problems. If you don't hear anything make contact inside the engine when you do this, then you're in good shape to put the car back together again.

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Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2009

SOURCE: Ford Focus 2001 Z Tech

It is not an interference motor. You shouldn't have damaged anything. I have done lots of these timing belts, what seems to be the problem with you car? Does it run rough or surge?

agrundy

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2009

SOURCE: engine audi a6 1999

HI,AT WHAT SPEED DID THIS HAPPEN,IF AT IDLE OR VERY LOW SPEED,HAVE A NEW BELT FITTED IF IT RUNS NORMALLY YOU ARE LUCKY,IF IT RUN ROUGH WITH BAD MISFIRE OR NOT STARTING AT ALL THE VALVES ARE BENT,PLEASE LET ME KNOW,ANDY.

Anonymous

  • 114 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: 1997AudiA6Quatro2.8L-aligning cam and crankshaft for timing belt

You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...

freetek

Steve Allison

  • 5569 Answers
  • Posted on May 17, 2010

SOURCE: 1996 Audi A4 2.6 V6 engine code ABC - need advice

If you plan on doing more than light tuneup work, I highly recommend purchasing a manual for your car. We have for each of three vehicles a Haynes manual and it contains all the details on maintenance possible for the shade-tree mechanic. All are based on a complete rebuild.
Audi A4
Even if not doing a particular job, one can somewhat estimate what it will cost to have done.

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You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...
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HI,AT WHAT SPEED DID THIS HAPPEN,IF AT IDLE OR VERY LOW SPEED,HAVE A NEW BELT FITTED IF IT RUNS NORMALLY YOU ARE LUCKY,IF IT RUN ROUGH WITH BAD MISFIRE OR NOT STARTING AT ALL THE VALVES ARE BENT,PLEASE LET ME KNOW,ANDY.
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