I have a 97 Accord. I jumped the wiring for the fuel pump going into the main relay to test it and now I'm getting no power to the main relay. It blew the fuel pump fuse. I replaced with a new one and still no power. Any ideas?

no inertia switch check relays --module short possible burnt them out

Because you don't know what your doing . The gray wire goes to the fuel pump , the green wire is actually dark green with a white trace , this wire goes to the PCM - engine computer . You may have fried the transistor ( high side driver ) This supply's B+ voltage to energize the fuel pump relay . If you look on the bottom of the relay , you should see 4 set's of #'s 30 , 87 & 85 , 86 . 30 should have B+ voltage , 87 goes to the fuel pump . Jumping those two should make the fuel pump run . Hooking the gray to the drak green / white one won't do anything.

GM Fuel Pump Relay Testing

The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps). A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... give it a quick tap with a wrench. For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is going to the pump). If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come to life and it may stay running until you shut it off. This trick can get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency. If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this will NOT work as there will be no power going to your pump. If this is the case, you might try the below relay bypass "jump" trick to get power going to the pump. TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMP
How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit at your Volvo 240 fuse panel:The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel).

You can make a jumper from a wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results
For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7.
For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.

If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming), you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is really common under an old 240, near the pump). This test of course assumes your battery is good.
If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.
thx

Three things you may want to check out next in your problem diagnosis:

1. You may actually be getting power to the fuel pump through the functioning fuel pump relay and the good fuse, but the fuel pump itself may have failed - you can check by disconnecting the fuel pump electrical connector, and checking for battery voltage when the ignition key is turned to "Start".

2. The ignition switch itself may have failed, since it has been recalled on this vehicle. The recalled defect may have caused a failure of the switch to deliver power to the fuel pump at startup. Here's a list of all the recalls for the 1997 Accord:

Recall - Ignition Switch Replacement 02-031 09/24/2002
Recall 02V120000: Ignition Switch Defect NHTSA02V120000 05/01/2002
Recall 99V069000: Lower Ball Joint Replacement NHTSA99V069000 04/20/1999
Recall 98V231000: Air Conditioner Wire Harness Chafing NHTSA98V231000 09/18/1998
Campaign - Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Replacement 00-073 03/13/2001
Recall - A/C Wiring Harness Routing 98-072 10/13/1998

3. Testing the PGM-FI main relay is fairly involved (and not detailed in the information below). You may want to re-post your query asking for the testing & diagnosis procedure for this component alone.

Below find the 1997 Honda Accord manual entry for diagnosis & testing of the fuel pump electrical circuit.

TESTING

Fuel Pump Circuit

If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, listen for the pump to operate by removing the fuel fill cap and checking to see if the pump can be heard running during the first two seconds after the ignition key is turned to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump motor run.

If the fuel pump can be heard running, the fuel pump's electrical circuit is likely to be OK and the fuel pump operating pressure should be checked as outlined later in this section.

Once the engine has started, the fuel pump operation is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) via the PGM-FI Main Relay. The fuel pump receives its electrical power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, which is triggered for two seconds when the ignition switch is initially turned to the on position.

After the initial two-second startup signal is received, the PGM-FI Main Relay is controlled by the PCM. Because the fuel pump receives its power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, a problem with the ignition switch, PCM, or electrical wiring may not allow battery voltage to reach the pump.

To check the fuel pump wiring proceed as follows:

1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position.
2. Locate and detach the fuel pump electrical connector at the fuel tank.
3. You may have to remove the floor access panel. For specific details, see the fuel pump removal procedure in this section.
4. Fuel pump access is limited on some 1996-97 models of the Accord and may require you to work under the vehicle. Perform the following steps if that is the situation:

a. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on suitable jackstands.
b. Remove the protective cover from the fuel tank fuel hoses.

5. Detach the fuel pump electrical connector.
6. Connect a suitable Voltmeter between the fuel pump positive terminal of the electrical connector and a known good chassis ground.
7. Hold the electrical connector of the PGM-FI Main Relay so the wire side of the female terminals is visible and install a jumper wire between terminal Nos. 4 and 5.
8. When the ignition switch is turned ON , battery voltage should be present at the fuel pump electrical connector.
9. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pump's ground.
10. If the ground is "OK", check the fuel pump.
11. If battery voltage is not present, trace the wiring harness and check the cause for an open or shorted circuit.
12. If all wiring checks out, test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section.

Fuel Pump Pressure

The fuel pressure should be checked at the fuel rail or at the fuel feed line for the fuel rail. The fuel pressure is checked with the engine started, thus the fuel pressure gauge must not interrupt the flow of fuel to the fuel rail and the fuel injectors.

To attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressurized fuel loop requires the use of an adapter that is capable of safely withstanding the fuel system fuel pressure.

WARNING
Checking the fuel system fuel pressure requires the use of an in-line fuel pressure gauge with the engine running. Do not perform this check if suitable test equipment and fuel fittings are not available. The fuel system operates under pressure, if any fuel leakage is noticed while performing this check STOP immediately and do not continue until the source of the leak is resolved. Do not perform this test near sources of heat, spark, or flames. This test must be performed in a well-ventilated area.


CAUTION
The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF . The fuel system pressure MUST BE relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

To check the fuel system pressure proceed as follows:

1. Remove the fuel filler cap and relieve the residual fuel pressure. For specific details, refer to the relieving fuel pressure coverage in this section.
2. Attach a suitable fuel pressure gauge to the fuel injection fuel loop as follows:

Models such as the 1998-00 Accord have a fuel pulsation dampener which must be removed in place of the banjo bolt for testing.

1996-97 Accord with 4-cylinder engines and 1996-00 Prelude: Remove the service/banjo bolt from the end of the fuel rail. Install the fuel pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt or in place of the service bolt that will allow fuel to be supplied to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1996-97 Accord with V6 engines: Remove the banjo bolt from the fuel filter outlet and install the pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt and supply fuel to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1998-00 Accord: Remove the fuel pulsation damper from the end of the fuel rail and install a suitable fuel pressure gauge in its place.

3. Remove and plug the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator located near the end of the fuel rail.
4. Start the engine and note the fuel pressure. With the pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, the fuel pressure should register as follows:

2.2L engines: 38-46 psi (260-310 kPa)

2.3L engines: 47-54 psi (320-370 kPa)

2.7L engines: 40-47 psi (270-320 kPa)

3.0L engines: 41-48 psi (280-330 kPa)

If the engine won't start, turn on the ignition switch ON, wait two seconds, then turn off the ignition switch OFF. Turn the ignition switch back ON again and read the fuel pressure.

5. If the fuel pressure is higher than specification check for a pinched or restricted fuel return hose or line.

6. If the fuel pressure is lower than the specification check for a damaged fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel filter, fuel feed line or a leak in the fuel feed line. If the fuel pressure regulator, fuel feed lines, and fuel pump are OK, replace the fuel pump and fuel filter.

The fuel pressure regulator testing procedures are located later in this section.

Once the test is complete, perform the following:

7. Carefully remove the fuel pressure gauge and test fittings.
8. Install the removed fasteners using new sealing washers.
9. Install the fuel filler cap.
10. Start the engine and check for any fuel leaks, and repair as necessary.

under the hood in the black main relay and fuse box.look for fuel pump relay.the relays most likely bad. or a loose wire to the fuel pump.has it been wrecked? have to ask yourself alot of questions when you bypass the pump straight to battery and it works. start with simplelest 1st. check main fuse relay and fuse panel 1st.then go to wiring harness that goes to the pump. thank you for choosing fixya.com.

If you have verified a no power condition by pulling the tank and measuring the power signal to the pump then either your fuel pump relay is bad, or you have a bad fuse, or a broken wire somewhere in between.

My guess is that the fuel pump no longer comes on when you turn the key to the on position and that you havent dropped the tank to inspect the pump yes? If this is so you may have a bad fuel pump as well. What I would do is check the fuses for the fuel pump and make sure they are not blown. Then I would check out the relay, visually inspect it, the top should come off of it, look for any burnt wire traces and components inside the relay, you may be surprised to find other relays in your car are the same as the fuel pump relay. Swap one of those out with the fuel pump relay and see if that fixes the problem, this will save you the money of buying a new relay before you know it is your problem. If the relay appears good then you may have to drop the tank and install a new pump. Some vehicles have harnesses under the hood which allow you to feed power directly to the fuel pump so you can test it to make sure it is good before you drop the tank. Some don't. You can feed power directly to the fuel pump by jumping the pins on the relay, I am not familiar with the pinout on your cars relay however and could not advise you which pins to jump to feed power directly to the pump. Get a chiltens or haynes manual, they should have wiring diagrams in them.

have you tested for main power to the fuel pump relay and checked the main fuse???
this is a very common honda fault over in newzealand where im from..having owned a few myself i have come accross, this generally the relay though.. but if you have a good fuse supplying power to relay its the relay or wiring..if not , trace from fusebox back to ecu by passengers foot well....i cant quite remember what pin number is the fuel power but i know it only runs piggy back to ecu so ecu doesnt control it ... try this if no luck try auto sparky

1. make sure you really have no fuel delivery. open a line convenient for you as in cold start injector or fuel filter, disconnect ignition coil lead and crank away a bit to make sure you're not getting fuel.
2. I assume you're getting spark.
3. check efi fuse in main relay box passenger side inside right fender. if good check that you have juice at the Co relay hidden in the passenger kick plate. its the white-red terminalwhich delivers the current. the Circuit opening relay is really the main enchilada for getting the pump up and adam.
4. still no go. you have to address the Co relay itself. test terminals with ohm tester. also you can jump wire the Bp fP terminals in the diagnostic connector on the side of the main relay and see if the pump goes.
5. and lastly it might be the pump itself

ck all fuses? why did you drop tank down? if high mileage, poss. ign. switch problem. somewhat common.

Hi....
The fuel Pump relay (main relay)
On your Honda Accord is located:
Left side of the dash, near left side of the steering column.
On direction under the Instrument cluster.
You will need to remove the Cruise control Module if your car is equipaded with cruise control.
The cruise control module is atached fro 2 screw 10mm.
One on the steering column the other one at the Instrument bracket.
After you remove the cruise computer, you will see the relay.
Is a little bigger that a regular relay colour gray.
And the number on the relay is : RZ0088.

I hope this help on your question.
Thank you for use fixya....