Question about Isuzu Cars & Trucks
Your flasher is buzzing because it's a piezo instead of a flasher. I don't know how that would have been connected, but it is. Replace it with a flasher. The E brake light is on because the pull handle is still out just enough to connect it or it stays on because the antilock brake light is lit. Your dash and run lights have a blown fuse, headlights are on a separate fuse is why they still work. Water leaking from the roof shouldn't effect the electrical circuits, but most likely you have a wire or so crossed in the system.
Posted on Oct 06, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I understand you right based on your post/description, the signal lights would still turn on even if any or both of the flasher relays are removed. Should this be the case, then the signal lights are not getting the power from the flasher relays but from the brake light circuit.
Perhaps your concern is not with any of the flasher, but simply missing or loose ground more particularly with the rear lights. Perhaps you could try determining which of the wires for the brake lights and signal lights (as they come out of the light assembly) would be ground . A test and even possibly a temporary workaround is to hard wire a second ground connection from the determined ground wire of the lights and attach it to any conveniently located bolt or screw to the body. it may be to your advantage to do this on all the rear lights assembly.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Posted on Aug 05, 2008
TURN SIGNALS WILL FEED BACK THROUGH THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.THEY ARE INDEPENDENT OUT SIDE ON THE CAR BUT NOT IN THE SIGNAL SWITCH.REPLACE THE SIGNAL SWITCH
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
i would chk. break light switch. should be under dash above break pedel arm. emergency flashers will be on its own fuse, turn signals should have own fuse. as far as interior lights surging that could be ground or alt. chk. battery cables make sure clean and tight. not good idea unhooking bat. cable when running, one spark or surge to computer could burn up computer. besides that realy won't tell you anything if a diod is bad in alt. it may not show up until you tax the system. its best to take it someware like autozone, or any major auto parts store and have it chk.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
12V power passes through 15A fuse 33 (the one that keeps blowing?) in the battery junction box and on to the main light switch. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the park filaments of the dual park/turn lamps. These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The main light switch gets its 12V input from 7.5A fuse 11 in the central junction box and the same 15A fuse (33) identified above. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the instrument panel dimming module and module output is applied to the panel illuminating lamps.These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The input to fuse 33 is hot all the time so should read 12V. If you read 12V at the TAN/WHT connection with the fuse out, something is definitely not right. I'm sure you have noted that the fuse is common to the non-functioning circuits you mentioned.
Posted on Sep 15, 2012
More likely coming from the tail lite area. Check all bulbs, replace if the filament looks black, even if it works. Next look underneath car for wire(s) hanging or broken and grounding out on chassis or other metal. Must be something shorting the circuit to ground or a bulb drawing too many amps.
Posted on Oct 17, 2012
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