How to screw back Konica Minolta 2300dl transfer belt

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Konica Minolta bizhub printers & copiers cooling fan not working related questions and answers. Ask your Konica ... Question about Bizhub C550. 1 Answer ...

Konica Minolta Bizhub C550 Cooling fan power - Questions ...

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konica minolta bizhub c252 error c-5351 C - 5351 Is power cooling fan problem.Verify the cooling fan connectors and clean.For reset open/close the front door.

cooling fan not operating properly - HP Support Forum

which engine.?
the XJ has a serp, in the USA LHD. (left hand drive)
most have no auto tensioner (sorry !) its not a GC.
the 4.0L has a screw drive, tensioner, not like on new cars.
the force is below. why not just buy a new one... start fresh.????.
if the screw, below the PS, that huge long screw was never set right then it will slip, most shops are to lazy to do it right
or too cheap to own the simple tool to measure tension.
as you can see its NON TRIVial AT 180 LBS.
FROM THE XJ BOOK, ,valid to 2001. RHD never LHD cars.
and never export cars. 4.0L only., so.....




posted the free book on xj 200 times
the chapter 7 covers all this,
if you care to read. RTM?

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service


LHD ONLY !!!!!!
the force spec. is HUGE.
that is the first thing go learn on 4L back then.
same my 2 1988s, xj and pickup twins. 5million made.

Hi there, Yeah this is a bit tricky. First things first. what engine do you have in ? Double cams have unique marks. You will see the left cam sprocket should be aligned with "IN" on the intake side and "Exhaust" on the exhaust side. On the same sprocket is a indent line on the edge of the sprocket on the exhaust side. The sprocket on the right side "Exhaust side", should be aligned exactly as the left one. So you have both sprockets aligned with the "intake" facing the intake side and the exhaust facing the exhaust side. You will now notice that there is a line up indent on the outer ring of both sprockets. These should be exactly facing towards each other. Now caution is advised here, even before you start with this, you must move your crankshaft sprocket to the left just so that all pistons are half way up. This will make sure when you do turn the cam shafts that the valves don't interfere with any piston. Now adjust the cam shafts as described above and use inventful mind to lock both cam sprockets in line together. Make dead sure with use of a ruler, that the lines on both sprockets are definitely lined up. Now move your crankshaft sprocket to the right and line up the two markers on the outer side with the line directly above further away from the TDC marks, "Located to the left". So to the right of those TDC marks is a Forged out line. Line the two dots on the c-shaft up with this line. When done with this you may fit on the belt and make sure that the belt is fitted tightly on the exhaust side meaning pulled to near tension, then follow through to the left cam and then over the water pump. Fit on the tension-er. Here you get two different types of tension-ers. Automatic one is fitted under the intake side cam sprocket, it gets hold down with a bolt. the wire fitted with the tension-er loops over a bolt already fitted on the motor. Using a allen key turn the tension er so that the align plate with v-shaped indent is facing directly to the bottom loop of the wire. Then tighten the bolt hold down to lock the tension er in place. Lastly the ideal method before you fire up the engine is to remove the negative battery terminal and after you have fitted the external belt sprockets, on the crankshaft is to turn the engine clock wise and make sure that no valve is interfering with a piston. Turn until you can see the timing marks you just setup aligns back to normal. On the outer belt sprocket fitted on the c-shaft, there is a mark as well, this should also line up with the line further away to the right from the other marks to the left located on the belt cover. When you have spun the c-shaft clockwise, about eight times and all the marks align back to normal without any valve interfering with any piston, you may finish of the rest and fire up. Here your good to go. Good luck

If you recently added power steering fluid, this is a very common issue that many people come across. Power steering fluid is very commonly over filled. When the fluid reservoir is overfilled, it will flow right out over the top of the reservoir when you make a full turn either right or left. When this occurs, it gets onto your belt {s} and is then transferred all over the engine vie the belt and the air being blown back over your engine by your fan. If it is not an overfilling issue, then you have either a loose pressure line, a ruptured pressure line, a bad crimp on a pressure line or your fluid reservoir O-ring and body have somehow become separated. Pressure lines are typically easy to replace. If it is the pump and fluid reservoir, then unless you have experience at working on automobiles, I would suggest taking it to your mechanic.

From 2006 to 2010, the Sonata's 3rd brake lamp requires the rear package deck be removed to access that bulb.
1. Remove the rear passenger seat bottom (remove two12mm bolts between the seat back and the seat bottom - tilt the seat back forward to locate these bolts).
a. Press the two bottom front edge tabs to release the front of the seat bottom from the floor.
b. Remove seat bottom & set aside w/two 12mm bolts
c. Tilt both seat backs downward
2. Remove the left & right hand shoulder cushions (12 mm bolt at the bottom of each cushion)
a. Remove seat belt from shoulder cushion guide at the top of the cushion
b. Lift up and forward on shoulder cushions to remove them (if equipped with side airbags, disconnect wire harness connector).
c. Set shoulder cushions aside w/two 12mm bolts
3. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop out the 'SRS' button cover from the C pillar panels on the left & right hand side to access either the phillips head screws, 10mm bolts, or #30 Torque Screws
a. Remove screws and set aside
b. Using a standard flathead screwdriver, pop out the C pillar panels on both sides (clips hold these panels in place)
c. Set these panels aside after removal w/screws/bolts
4. Trunk Access-way panels are held in place by phillips head screws (two at the bottom (left and right hand sides) and 4 to 5 at the top .
a. Remove left and right hand panels and set aside w/screws.
5. Rear package deck held in place with two plastic clips (white, yellow or pink)
a. lie on your back inside the trunk (trunk lid open to allow for more light). Looking through access hole find 3rd brake light wire harness connector & disconnect.
b. locate package deck clips, one on the left and another on the right on the underside of the pckage deck
c. Squeeze clips to push them out - package deck will come loose
d. Remove package deck & remove 3rd brake lamp bulb socket (turn counter clockwise to remove). Replace bulb & reassemble in reverse order.

Remove left front tire
Remove 3 plastic push pins on inner
fender splash shield
On your right where your left foot would
be inside the veh, is the fuel filter
Remove 1 screw,I believe 7mm,
that holds filter clamp,which you will
transfer to new filter
Push filter line release connectors
with fingers only

yeah you can do it without the special tools, i work at a dealer and i dont even use the special tools,,,once you get the timing belt cover off,rotate the engine till all the timming marks line up,there are notches on the timing belt backing plate and they match the marks on the cam sprockets,now thew cam all the way to the left is 1 then 2 and 3 and 4 being all the way to the right becarefull the cams have more than one number on them so make sure the #1 on the #1 cam is up and #2 on 2 cam and so forth,otherwise you will bend the valves and ruin your engine,,,the crank sprocket has a mark on it as well as does the oil pump to line it up youll see it thru the passenger side tire well,,,then remove the 13mm nut from the tensioner,its the one all the way to the left under the cam sprocket #1,,and then remove the belt,,,now when u put the new belt on start atthe number 2 cam sprocket and put it on ,,there are no marks on belt to line up so its very important you have all marks on cams and crank lined up,,,then after its on #2 go around the upper tensioner pulley between #2 and #3 cam and make it tight and wrap it on #3 and the #4 sometimes u gotta move the cam a hair to get the teeth to line up on the belt so it goes on but it will all line up perfect in the end,then go around #1 make sure all cam are lined up and belt is tight,,you can not have it off even a tooth,,,then go around #4 to idler and around crank on right side and on left side go around crank too,now i usually use small vise grips with very light pressure to keep the belt on the cams,so they dont jump,,,then pull down on the right and turn crank front 2 teeth and put belt on crank and then put crank back to normal spot and then all you excess slack should be right where the tensioner is at the left that you took off before,keep all the slack there,,,,and the put the tensioner on while holding the belt tight and then use a allen wrench and 13mm wrench to adjust and tighten belt tensioner,,,,make sure all your marks line up,,, osometimes if you havent done this before it may be easier to have another set of hands to help you hold thingss

to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

is this a 4x4 ? if yes they go to the vacume switch screwed in to the left side of the transfer case faceing foward

What you do is line up the lower mark. Go to the upper sprocket and move the sprocket 1 tooth back(counter clockwise). After the belt is on, Rotate ONLY the upper sprocket to take up the slack in the long side of the belt being careful of not moving the lower sprocket. The upper spocket should now be exactly where it should be. Release the tensioner and I like to use a big screw driver or something to "preload" the tensioner before fully tightening it. The belt should have really good tension. The rule of thumb is the long side of the belt should not be able to twist 90 degrees to the engine. If it's more that that, ou need to tension it up tighter.