Ok you must do a bunch of things first (1) have the battery tested (2)while it's disconnected make sure that the cable from the alternator to the power distribution box is clean of corrosion and all fuses blades are clean , your engine runs on gas/diesel ,but it's controlled by electrical sensors ,and if the voltage coming into the power distribution box is not up to specs then various sensors are not either and are robbing each other causing the pcm to elevate the rpm's because the voltage signal is not where it should be this includes fuse blades that are loose and possibly corroded, and the lug connections on the box ,and all grounds on the engine and frame are to be cleaned and scraped to make good contact there are multiple grounds that are associated with sections of the vehicle wiring,also you must check for continuity of the wires and for blown fuse links ,Carl's answer is very possible here as well as a bad battery cable/s could be corroded inside and not relaying the current back to the battery
Possibility your truck has a short that is affecting the pump would run a shortage test easy to do then check the grounds and power than run with the pump
C1241 TOYOTA Meaning -
If there is a problem with the brake actuator assembly (Skid Control Electronic Control Unit) power supply circuit, the skid control ECU outputs the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and prohibits under the fail-safe function.
SOURCE: My battery light in dash and high idle.
it may mess up the voltage to the sensor giving it false information and changing the idle speed.
SOURCE: Alternator keeps going bad - three so far. Battery light flickering off/on now.
Having worked for an Isuzu dealer I have seen this a lot with aftermarket alternators from places like auto-zone, napa etc. For some reason they will do strange things in these vehicles. The fix was to get a Isuzu alternator. We did have good luck with Beck Arnly alternators also. We also had a local rebuilder repair some with good luck too. If all else fails get a used one.
SOURCE: the idle goes high and low
there was a tsb on those for the neutral switch. it can cause all sorts of funky problems. usually you get a check eng. light with egr code and imrc code. can cause erattic idle, stalling, and alot of confusion. it is located behind a bracket under the transmission. you can check continuity wile putting the shifter in and out of gear. also there in a tsb on the clutch pedal switch that can do the same thing. you can look under the dash and make sure that the rubber stopper is completely engaging an diengaging the switch, and you can check continuity there as well. hope this helps you... dustang
SOURCE: 1999 Volvo S80 T6 slightly fluctuating idle/blinking head lights
I had a similar problen on my s60 I got the trottle body properly cleaned and it fixed it right up
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